Sinhagad Trek - A cherished trekking destination, and my first ever trek to SInhagad.

Pune Darwaja, Trekkers Touch Point

Introduction. 

Sinhagad, an ancient fort tracing its history to almost 2000 years, was originally named Kondhana after Rishi Kondinya and was ruled by many dynasties before it became part of Maratha Swarajya under Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. Chhatrapati Shivaji acquired this fort twice before peacefully but had to give it up this fort to the Mughals under the Treaty of Purandar in the year 1665. How it came back under the fold of Marathas is a folklore known to every old and young person in Maharashtra and beyond.

Who does not remember with due reverence, the heroic battle fought by the Maratha army in the year 1670 under Tanaji Malusare, of around 300 soldiers, in a daring midnight raid, with a mighty Mughal army of strength of roughly 5000 men under Subhedar Udaybhan Rathod, a brave Rajput working for Mughals. This happened on 4 Feb 1670. The famous words of Chhatrapati Shivaji, "Gad Aala pan Sinha Gela" (We won the fort but lost our Lion, Tanaji) still resound in people's ears.

Such a lofty fort, the second closest from Pune, the first being Malhargad, a small fortress across Dive Ghat (and the last one built by Marathas) and third being Purandar beyond Saswad, has been my dream trek. Dream trek, not because it is the toughest trek in the Syadhari mountains, it is actually graded easy, but because I wanted to tread on that very territory where Chatrapati's Mavals treaded, with nothing else but the willpower and love for motherland and freedom on a pitch dark night. For me, it was a long due Pilgrimage completed.

As for trekking, I am not a regular but I have done some treks that many have not down like Hemkund Saheb in Uttaranchal, and Tiger Nest Monastery at Bhutan, but Sinhagad, that is very special for every Marathi heart.

Location.

Situated about 40 km west of Pune on the Bhuleshwer range of Sahyadri Mountains, Sinhagad is 760 meters above ground and about 1300 meters from Mean Sea Level (MSL). It has a motorable road leading to public parking just a hundred meters away from one of its two gates, namely Pune Darwaja. One can travel to the fort by a two-wheeler, four-wheeler, or even by a cab or PMPL Bus.

Visiting the places of interest in this fort may take anywhere between 2 to 4 hours. There are places worth visiting including a Cannon storage, Stables, Tanaji Malusare memorial, Udaybhan Memorial, unfortunately generally disrespected by many visitors, Kali and Hanuman temple, Tilak Bungalow, Samadhi of Chatrapati Rajaram, who died here in 1700 CE. This fort also has a tank with clean drinking water called Dev Taki. There are various Burz of the fort that also can be visited. 

Trekking to Sinhagad.

There are two ways to trek to the Sinhagad fort. the first one, which was used by us, is about 23 km from Swargate. One follows the Sinhagad road and after Khadakwasala dam, skirting  DIAT, Girinagar, reaches Atkarwadi village. The trek starts from here and ends at Pune Darwaza. There is ample paid parking available for two and four-wheelers in this village. There are also a few hotels available for tea, snacks, breakfast, and lunch. 

The second trek starts from Donje village and goes to Kalyan Darwaza. I have not experienced this trek.

There are also small hutments available on the trekking route serving Buttermilk, Lime Juice, bread and cute things like Raw mangoes, Amla, etc. Some of these huts also serve Pithale (a Dish made from Gram Flour) and Bhakari (Country flat bread made mostly of Shorgham flour), the diet staple, diet of this region.

This path is about 2.8 km with varying terrains to cover. some are plain, some are moderate climbs and some are steep climbs. Some people also mentioned (just overheard) that this trek has 4 or 5 stages but neither there are such markings nor such stages mentioned in any blog. Maybe they were referring to the kind of surfaces encountered by trekkers during this trek.

Sinhagad trek, from either route, is considered easy. both routes take about 2 hours for amateur trekkers. Seasoned trekkers, on the other hand, take about 45 to 50 minutes to reach the fort.

Many trekkers start early, very early, like at 4 a.m, particularly on weekends. It was mentioned that on weekends, it's a non-ending stream of trekkers going up the hill to Sinhagad. When we trekked on a Saturday, we did not experience such a rush but while we were descending, many trekkers were seen climbing up. late in the morning. All of them were troubled by the sharp and bright sun.

Trekking Essentials.

That brings me to list out the trekking essentials that I discerned with my experience -

1. Ample parking is available for trekkers for both 2 and 4-wheelers. That should not be a concern.

2. Dressing in comfortable sportswear and having some type of tracksuit top, in wintery months, and rain cover (in monsoon) is essential. Using Jeans and flashy tops will trouble the climbers as the heat builds up.

3.  Use good sports shoes with a firm grip. If trekking shoes are used, that is even better.

4.  A golf Cap would be helpful but is not essential.

5.  Up to two ltr of drinking water is good enough for the ascent to Sinhagad. There are enough stalls available, which would be functional as one descends where water, lime juice, buttermilk, etc is available.

6. Most important of all is, to start early when the sun is not up. That is for two reasons, one, you will be able to reach on top with a relatively cooler climate before the Sun comes up. Second, witnessing the sunrise from Sinhagad is a great experience. One may need a torchlight to climb up early (we had climbed up in natural light but I would recommend carrying a torch by each individual climber).

7. A variety of Breakfast (and lunch) options are available along the way (which are useful during descent) and at the parking area. They are a boon for tired minds and legs when one is back from the trek.

Having covered most of the information. I wish all the trekkers to Sinhagad all the very best. Keep Walking.

Now some of the photos that I took at Sinhagad and on the way down (Remember, we climbed starting at 4 am when only natural light was there.

Pune in the night, from SInhagad hill

Ugawala Chandra Punava Cha (Moon of Full Moon Night)

Little Star Up in the Sky (Eakal Tara)

Tya Chandrachya Chandanya (those stars accompanying the Moon)

The village below (the start point)

A very calm moon

Breaking of Dawn

Dawn as seen from Pune Darwaja

Tejonidhi Lohgol (The bright Ironball)

Final Climb

Sayhadri Ranges

Looking Down from Pune Darwaja Bastian

Pune Darwaja

Verdict.  Sinhagad trek is something worth trying. It helps you test yourself against rugged hills which helps you strengthen your confidence and self-respect. My verdict is, to get out of your comfort zone and go for it.

Uzbekistan Travel Part III - Bukhara

Introduction.

Bukhara is one of the most ancient cities in the world. Evidence points out that this region has been inhabited for 5 millennia, however, the traced history surely indicates that Bukhara as we know existed for at least 2000 years.

How to Reach Bukhara.

Bukhara is easily accessible from all major destinations of Uzbekistan through road and rail network. High-speed trains run between Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent. There are flights also between Tashkent and Bukhara.

Stay Options at Bukhara.

Bukhara is a famous tourist destination. If one ventures into the old city, it would be evident that almost every third house is a hotel, a boutique hotel. If one looks for hostels, there are a large number of them starting right from the city centre to the outer areas of this city. Stay options in Bukhara are plenty, suiting all pockets. Some of the Boutique Hotels in the old city are so beautiful that they look like parts of a palace. See the images below of one of the hotels, called Komil, where we stayed.

Decorative Cupboard

Decore on the wall

This is called Intricate Design

Food Options in Bukhara.

Uzbek Cuisine is predominantly based on meat products. Meat lovers will enjoy eating Uzbek dishes. However, they may have to be careful to let the hotel know if they can or can not eat Beef.

And what about vegetarians? Vegetarians can manage veg choices in all four main destinations of Uzbekistan because many hotels in these four destinations have veg items on their menus. Vegetarianism is something Uzbeks learned just a few years ago. Jain food is at another level and your tour operator will have to work hard to manage Jain food for Indian Jain travellers.

Moving around in Bukhara.

Bukhara is really a walkers' paradise. Everything worth visiting, except for Summer Palace (Satorai Mokhi Khosa), is within walking distance of any hotel, hostel or B&B in the old city. However, one needs to take a cab to the Airport, Railway Station, Bus Stand or Taxi Stand, because they all are a little further from the old city. Taxi aggregate Yandex and other similar services exist in Uzbekistan. One can request their hotel also to book a cab for going to these places.

Places worth a visit.

Here is a list of some of the important places that are recommended for a visit when in Bukhara.

(a)  Ismail Samani Mausoleum.

(b) Po-i-Kalyan Mosque and Kalyan Minor.

(c) Sitori Mokhi Khosa.

(d) Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah.

(e) Chashmai Ayub Mausoleum.

(f)  Bolo Hauz Mosque.

(g) "The Ark" Citadel of Bukhara.

(h) Bahauddin Nakshabandi Memorial Complex.

(i)  Chor (Char) Minor.

(j)  Ancient Trading Domes / Abdullah Khan Tim (also known as Trading Domes).

Let us visit all of them one by one -

(a)  Ismail Samani Mausoleum.  It is the oldest building in Bukhara. This Mausoleum stands in a park that was erected during Soviet times. This place holds the graves of the Samanid Dynasty (819 to 1005 CE). They were the members of a Nobel family from Persia, who governed this area, then known as Transoxiana on behalf of the Bagdad-based Abbasid Caliphate.

This structure has historical significance as this is one of the earliest Islamic structures to survive in Central Asia. This is named after Ismail Samani, the most famous and just ruler of this dynasty. This tomb was built mostly by Zorastrain Artisens as that was the original religion of this region, with a design borrowed from a Persian Fire temple as, firstly, they knew that style well and secondly, there was hardly any precedence. In fact one of the Architectural Historians, Hillenbrand called it "A fire Temple in Islamic Dress".

Constructed fully with baked bricks, the Tomb has stunning designs, particularly inside. The elements used inside and outside have a mix of various designs, some of them distinctly Zoroastrian.

Ismail Samani Mausoleum (892 - 942 CE)

Ismail Samani Mausoleum, beautiful Structure, the inner wall

(b)   Po-i-Kalyan Mosque and Kalyan Minor.

Kalyan is supposed to mean, "At the feet of the great one". Po-i-Kalyan complex consists of three buildings, Kalyan Mosque, Kalyan Minor and Mir - i - Arab Madrassa. Originally built in 1127 CE, the mosque was soon destroyed by Genghis Khan in 1220. While he destroyed the Mosque, he was so enamoured with the Minor that he ordered it to be untouched. Kalyan Mosque was rebuilt in 1515 and Mir - i - Arab Madrassa was built in 1527.

Both these buildings have beautiful ornate facades decorated with Majolika tiles. Kalyan mosque is a massive mosque with a big courtyard. It was made to rival Bibi Khanum Mosque of Samarkand. It must be remembered that Samarkand was then the central authority. Since the central authority had weakened, Bukhara Khanate wanted to make a mosque rivalling the main mosque of the central authority. This happened to be the third biggest mosque in central Asia.

Po-i-Kalyan Mosque and Kalyan Minor

Intricate Carvings on Kalyan (welfare) Mosque

Mir - i - Arab is a functional Madarassa and hence very small area can only be visited.

Madrasah Mir - i - Arab

Madrasah Mir - i - Arab, another Pic

(c)  Sitori Mokhi Khosa.

This complex housed the Palace of the Last Amir of Bukhara. Originally built in the 19th century by the father of the last Amir, this complex is situated 4 km north of the city. Housed in a fortress-like compound, made up of packed earth, it has a European-type palace where visitors and dignitaries were entertained and a private residence for Begums of the last Amir are the main buildings on the campus. The campus also has a Zoo, a huge garden and a guest that has now been made into a Museum of Folk Decorative Art. While the House of Wives and Mother is a simple house, the European palace houses some royal artefacts.

Entrance Gate to Satorai Mohl Khosa, Summer Palace of Last Bukhara Amir

Peacock in Summer Palace

Summer House in the Summer Palace where Queen Mother lived on 2nd floor

Dancing Peacock

(d)  Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah.

Built in 1622 -23 by the then diwan of Bukhara, Nodir Devonbegi in the then prime area of  Bukhara known as  Lyabi Khauz Square, it was originally built by the diwan as a Carvan Sarai to make some extra money.

The Amir, however, wanted to build a Madrassa closer to Khanaka, a place for Sufi saints to gather and meditate and here the Diwan was building a caravanserai right opposite the Khanaka. Sensing the wish of the Amir of that time, Diwan offered his completed building as a Madarassa though this building has images of animals and the sun at its entrance, very unlikely by Islamic standard for a madarassa. This place today has Uzbek cultural and fashion shows in the evening and its rooms are a vibrant marketplace for Uzbek artefacts, cloths and metalware.

This area also has a freshwater pond, Lyab i Hauz (made into Lyabi Khauz by Russians), eating places around it and  Khoja Nasiruddin statue. Khoja Nasiruddin, a famous character in folklore stories in Central Asia and the Arabic world, is mostly about his foolishness but many stories are about his wit.

Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah

Mulla Nasiruddin Statue

Kukeldosh Madarassa is the third building in the ensemble of Lyab-i-Hauz but archaeological finds now indicate that this Madarassa was a stand-alone structure. That has not changed people's belief of it being part of the Lyab-i-Hauz complex/ Consisting of over 100 rooms for students and many others for masters, this was the largest madrassah in Bukhara.

Kukeldosh Madrasha

(e) Chashmai Ayub Mausoleum.

Those conversant with the Christian Religious book, the Holy Bible know about Saint Job. In the Arabic world, he was known as Ayub. It is believed that while he was in this area many centuries ago, where Bukhara developed over time, he found people of this area were dying of thirst as no water was available in the area. He is said to have struck his staff on the ground where this Mausoleum (and a freshwater well within it)and a spring sprang up from the ground for people to drink water.

This legend makes Ayub a highly revered saint. Present Mausoleum was constructed in 12 CE and was extended by Timur two centuries later. This structure stands even today with the well-protected fresh water well. Paying respect to Saint Ayub and drinking a gulp of this miraculous well is a routine followed by many Bukharians.

Chashmai Ayub Mausoleum Entrance

Chashmai Ayub Mausoleum (12 CE)

Holy Well, Fresh Water well in the midst of this Desert

(f)  Bolo Hauz Mosque.

The only structure that survives from the original Registan (I suppose it means town square as there were registan in every city of this country), Bolo Hauz Mosque was constructed in the 17 century by the then Amir of Bukhara as a Public Mosque where the Amir and the commoner prayed together. The Amir wanted his subjects to know and feel that he is as much a common man as anyone else.

This mosque is therefore appropriately decorated with carved columns and a colourful roof, befitting a mosque where the Amir also prayed. Even today it's an operational mosque. Its painted and carved columns make it a beautiful sight.

This mosque is often called a mosque with 40 Columns. It has only 20 Columns. the balance 20 are the reflections of these 20 columns in the Houz in front of the mosque. See the image below.

Bolo Hauz Mosque (1712 CE)

Bolo Hauz Mosque reflection, a mosque with 40 columns

Every mosque has to have a minor, tower, for giving the call for the prayer. This mosque also has a Minor but unlike Indian mosques where the Minor is integrated, the Minor here is a bit offset. See the photo below.

Bolo Hauz Mosque Minor

(g) The Ark, Citadel of Bukhara.

The Ark of Bukhara traces its first construction in 3 BCE. This citadel has had many destructions and reconstructions in its long history. It served as the place of residence of the Amir of Bukhara and the high and mighty chieftains of the Amir. It was a siege which was later won by the Bolshevik troops from the Amir in 1920 CE when the Ark saw a lot of destruction. Today it serves as an imposing structure reminding of its glorious history and is a tourist place.

A few of the buildings, some from Timur's era are still there for visitors to see. They include Kurnish Kona, Amir's Durbar hall, Jami Masjid, Prime Misister's courtyard and a reception (greeting) hall for receiving visitors.

There is also a jail where prisoners were kept in the earlier days right under the horse stables. Needless to say, the prisoners had a terrible life in that prison.

Today this is a major tourist spot visited by every visitor to Bukhara.

The Ark, Citadel of Bukhara

(h) Bahauddin Nakshabandi Memorial Complex.

Bahauddin Nakshabandi, a Sufi saint of the 14th century, who propagated the Nakshabandi school of Sufis was laid to rest here where the complex stands today. He had a huge following and is even said to have given his teachings to Amir Timur. He had a very simple philosophy, Heart with God and Hands with Work.

The place where he was buried was originally the site of a village, most likely of ancient Hindus (called Pagans). The present complex though was built in 16th CE by the then Amir. It's a big complex which consists of many things including many royal graves, a Hauz, a hospital, etc.

Bahauddin Nakshabandi did Haaj some 33 times. This place now is revered as local Macca with a belief that if one does a pilgrimage to Nakshabandi's grave three times from Bukhara on foot, it equates to one Haaj. 

The imposing gate of the complex can be seen below.

Bab - e - Islam (Gate of Islam) to Bahauddin Nakshabandi Memorial Complex

(i)  Chor Minor (Char Minar).

This complex is sometimes called the Madarassa of Khalif Niyaz Kul, a rich businessman in Bukhara. He constructed this structure in 1807. Some people take this building as the gateway of the abovementioned Madarassa (which no more exists) but this place is more like a Sufi Prayer place or a mosque. This structure is unique because it has a very peculiar design not found in this region. The concept of char minar it seems came because of the visit of Mr Kul to the Taj Mahal in India prior to this structure being built.

All four minors of Chor Minor are different. Each one symbolises the religions present in this region. Buddhist and Christian symbols can be easily seen. These minors served different functions including as a pathway to the roof.

Overall it is an interesting and unique structure making it a must-visit place in Bukhara. 

Chor (Char) Minor

(j)  Ancient Trading Domes / Abdullah Khan Tim (also known as Trading Domes).

Bukhara was the heart of the Silk Route. In the ancient times, goods were bartered. It is presumed that Bukhara was the place where goods exchanged hands. Bukhara has had several Bazar complexes, each one of typical domed structures, each one had its own Sarai for travellers to eat and rest and a blacksmith shop (The trade was mostly on Horseback and Camelback and they needed shoes to be fitted. Traders also had utility items to be repaired and weapons to be tended to).

Each complex specialises in one major trade item. The bazaar that you see in the photo below was called Zargaron or Glodsmith Bazar which once boosted of 36 goldsmiths operating from here.

One of the Trading Dome of Ancient times, Zargaron Bazar

 

Another one below, known as  Abdulla Kham Tim, was very costly and precious items were traded.

Abdullah Khan Tim, Ancient" Silk Route time" Bazar where costly items were sold

Another bazaar, close to Lyab Hauz was the biggest currency exchange of its time. only 4 such Bazars survive today and are marketplaces for carpets, knives and other such items.

How Many Days Are Required to Visit Bukhara.

If one wants to see all the places Bukhara has to offer, enjoy local cuisine and experience local culture, at least 6 to 7 days may be needed. For usual travellers, two days are adequate but if 3 days can be spared, the visit would be a little relaxed. A rushed visit can be done in 1.5 days.

To Travel or Not to Travel to Bukhara, Our Recommendation.

Bukhara combines history, culture and a visual delight. Our recommendation is, that it is a must-visit place. Go for it. 

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Uzbekistan Travel - Part II - Khiva

Khiva 

Two Uzbek Elders enjoying Tea (Couldn't get the official name)

A statue near Kalta Minor

Khiva Town Center

 Introduction

Khiva is an ancient city dating back to 6 CE. Some experts think it is even older than 6 CE. Situated in the extreme west-southwest of Uzbekistan. It was a Khanate or an independent kingdom for a long time. It was annexed by the Russian Empire in 1873 a subsequently by Communists in 1917 as the "Khorezm Soviet Republic". Furthermore, it was later merged with the Uzbekistan Soviet Republic of USSR in 1925.

Khiva was the first place in independent Uzbekistan to be declared a "World Heritage" Site. Khiva was (and is) divided into two parts, the outer town (Dichan Kala) and Inner Town (Itchan Kala). There was a fort with 11 gates that surrounded the Outer town and a Mudbrick fort that surrounded Itchan Kala. This place is not some Museum Piece. This place (Itchan Kala) is a living town with 50 monuments and about 300 Mud-Straw heritage houses with almost 3000 people living in them.

Khiva is a place that is seeped into history. This ancient town once upon a time controlled the Ivory trade between India, yes you got it right, India and the rest of the world before the Silk Road came into being. This place has an old-world charm.

How to reach Khiva

Khiva is connected with the rest of the towns of Uzbekistan by road as also by Rail. Rail connection from Khiva is slow speed, whereas Uzbekistan has high-speed trains between Tashkent and Bukhara. However, there is no airport in Khiva. The nearest airport is at Urgench, a big town about 35 km from Khiva. There are flights from all major cities of Uzbekistan to Urgench. This being an International airport, there are also flights from Turkey, France, Italy, Russia, etc.

Places to Stay

There is a hotel or a guest house or a homestay in almost every house in Khiva. Availability and range of accommodation are thus hassle-free. 

Places of Interest

Khiva old city (Itchan Kala) inside the walled enclosure is a living museum. almost all the buildings except houses and hotels have some story to tell the visitors. thus whole of Khiva's old city is a massive place of Interest. But if I have to make a list to narrow down places of interest in Khiva, it would look like this as described below -

1. Khiva Citadel Itchan Kala (Qula in local language) with its 4 gates.

Khiva Citadel is where everything is. This small fort with 4 gates has brick walls which are even now covered in Mud and Straw mixture which is renewed every 4 years. This wall is 10 meters high and has  Bastions.

This enclosure is built in a square format with each gate on the arms of the square controlling access to it from that side. Once upon a time, Khiva was known as a city with 1000 Minor. Today there are 51 historical monuments and 250 houses inside this Kala.

Itchan Kala, The ancient fortress, External view

The Western Gate, its morning time so shadows can be seen

Bird eye  view of Khiva

Ichan Kala Wall

2. Djuma Mosque (Jumma Mosque). 

Tracing its history to over 1000 years (at least), but built (or maybe renovated) in 1778 - 1782, the Djuma (Jumma) masjid of Khiva is an unusual structure. It's a single large hall of 45 x 55 meters, where the roof, which has three open skylights, is supported by 213 wooden columns dating back to various periods and civilizations. The symmetry of the wooden columns is such that the Prayer Leader can be seen by all the worshippers.

Another unusual feature of this mosque is, it has no dome and it has no Minar within it, though there is a cigar-shaped seven-stage Minor next to it which was built during the reconstruction/renovation of the mosque between 1778 and 1782. another thing that stands out is, this Jumma mosque has three entrance doors but they are simple wooden carved doors, with the main door which is 700 years old,  unlike the grand entrance doors of all other mosques.

It is impressive to observe differently carved wooden columns and also the interplay of lights and shadow due to skylights in an otherwise dark hall. 

There are some views that this was originally a Zoroastrian place of worship which got converted to a mosque after the Arab conquest of this area.

Jumma Masjid, ancient door (Supposed to be origibal)

Close-up of the Door

Inside the Moaque, Wooden columns can be seen

Mesmerised by the carvings on the columns

The Place for Prayer Leader

3. Kuhna Ark. A citadel within Itchan Kala, adjacent to the Western Wall of the fort, this place, Kuhna Ark is a self-contained fortress within a fort. It has been in existence since 12 CE but was raised and new construction came up as a complex built over various periods, starting with Arang Khan who started in 17th CE. Soon it was razed again during the Persian invasion. The place that we see today was started by Inaq Iltuzar in 1804 and its construction was continued by his successors.

This citadel has various sections which serve different functions. some of the notable sections of Kunha Ark are The Summer Mosque, Reception Courtyard, AK Sheikh Bobo Bastion, and Heram.

Bobo Bastion, which is part of the western wall of Itchan Kala is a place to get a beautiful bird's eye view of Khiva’s old town.

Main Entrance to Kunha Ark

Close up

View from Bobo Bastion

Islam Hoja Minor view

Inner Mosque, Kuhna Ark

Meeting Room

4.  Pahalvon Makhmood Mausoleum. It is the final resting place of Pahalvon Makhmood, a Sufi saint, an Iranian Wrestler, and a very honest person who always earned by wrestling or other trades and gave away most of what he earned to the poor and needy. He died in 1326 and was buried here.

His tomb remained a simple and humble one like any other tomb till 1810. The grand Mausoleum that we see here was built in 1810 by the ruler of Khiva at that time, Mohammad Rahim, who championed Pahalvon Makhmood as the patron saint of Khiva. Pahalvon Makhmood's Tomb, from its earlier Avatar, became a grand building that eventually became the final resting place of the rulers of Khiva. This Mausoleum is built in the traditional style with a huge dome, many rooms and halls, and many tombs of the rulers. Set in a big area, it also has a small garden at the entrance and a well, the water of which is famous for giving miraculous relief. The locals and the Iranians have tremendous faith in the powers of Pahalvon Makhmood. It is a place that is not to be missed.

Mausoleum Campus Mail Entrance seen from inside

Main Entrance to Mausoleum 

One of the Royal Tomb

Beautiful Decoration

Pahalwan Makhmood Tomb

5.  Ali Kuli Khan Madarasa. Built in 19th CE,  by Ali Kuli Khan, the then Ruler of Khiva, this 19th century Madrassa is one of the most beautiful buildings in Khiva. Considered one of the most decorative buildings in Khiva, this madrassa is adored with Black, Blue, and White majolica for decoration. This madrassa also had a big library and this was open to all the madrassas students of Khiva. Missed clicking this place.

6. Kalata Minor and Mohammad Amir Khan Madrassa.  Also built in the 19th CE, it was built by Mohammad Amir  Khan, the then Ruler of Khiva, this 19 th century Madrassa was intended to be a beautiful building that would stand till eternity (as per an Arabic inscription found on this madrassa gate). This Madarassa, when built, defied the logic of having only 99 rooms in a Madarass of those days and has 125 rooms. Some people attributed the early death of Mohd. Amir Khan, by beheading by Turkmen tribes, to him defying the diktat of having 99 or fewer rooms  (some superstation I must say). Out of these 125 rooms or cells spread around the central courtyard on two floors, 120 were for the students and five rooms were for the teachers.

Mohammad Amir Khan also built Kalta Minor or short minar. It was not meant to be a short minar as evidenced by the huge diameter of the base (needed to build this minor to a great height) but its construction stopped after Mohammad Amir Khan's death. Decorated with very attractive turquoise tiles, Kalta Minor is possibly the most photographed monument in the whole of Khiva.

Kalta Minor

 

Inside the Mohammad Amir Khan Madrassa, Now a Hotel

Entrance to the Complex

 

Connecting Bridge between Madrassa and Minor

Another view of Madrassa

8.  Islam Hoja Minor and Madarassa. This minor and madrassa, built in the early 20th century are named after the then Vazir of Iskander Khan, ruler of Khiva. the naming of a monument in anyone else’s name other than the ruler was a very unlikely thing but it did happen due to the foresight and planning of Islam Hoja. There is a story about it but it’s too long to be added here, The 

Minor here, which is 44 meters high and erected over a 10 m base,  is the tallest Minor in the whole of Khiva. On payment of a fee, it is possible to visit this minor up to the top and enjoy majestic views of Khiva.

Islam Hoja Minot (Tallest in Khiva) and Madrassa

9.   Tash Khauli (Stone Palace). Built between 1832 and 1841 by the then ruler, Ali Kuli Khan, this is the most decorated building in Khiva. It has three courtyards including a reception courtyard and a courtyard to deliver justice, what stands out is the courtyard for use by Ali Kuli Khan, his 4 official wives and some of his concubines (44 to be precise).  the rooms of Ali Kuli Khan and his wifes are on one side of the courtyard and on the other side are the rooms for his mistresses. 

The decoration here, in this complex, is of stones, tiles and Majolika panes, Marble carvings and wooden columns which are carved and these columns are supported by stone bases at the bottom.

The throne room is on the western enclosure and the Sleeping room of Khan is in his personal quarters in the Eastern wing. 

Sleeping Room

This place is now a Museum 

Personal Quarters

How many days are needed for visiting Khiva.

The time needed to visit Khiva depends on how deep your interests are in Culture and Architecture. For a usual tourist, one and a half to two days is enough. On the other hand, if one has to see everything that Khiva has to offer, many more days are needed.

What is Our Recommendation?

When visiting Uzbekistan, Khiva is a must-visit destination that is not to be omitted from your destination list.