Monday, February 22, 2021

Historical Temples of Pune

Rapid Blog

Pune - Heritage Temple Walk


I did a heritage walk yesterday, 21 Feb 2021, with Sandeep Godbole (@GodboleSandeep) along with a small group of interested people at Pune. 

Pune, in its about 350 years of history had about 400 temples of various eras in the old town generally called the "Peth" area. Today's walk was focused on the old and beautiful temples of the historic part of  Pune city.

Omkareshwar Temple

We started from Omkerashwar Temple, a 17-century temple built by Chimaji Appa, brother of Peshwa Bajirao I and one of the greatest General of the Maratha Empire. It is built-in Cheere Bandi stone structure style. The Samadhi of Chimaji Appa and his wife Annapurna exists in the premise of this temple. Interestingly, this temple has 9 Shikhars including the main Shikhar.

This temple also holds significance in the freedom struggle. It is said that the first "Holi' of British Goods was lit in this temple complex.

The entrance of Omkareshwar Temple with Nakkar Khana

The narrow entrance to the Main temple, Seen from the temple Courtyard. 4 Shikhars can be seen

Nandi Statue in the courtyard

Omkareshwar. The door has a Ganesh Patti

Nandi Temple as seen from the main temple side of Courtyard

Colourful Houses of Shaniwar Peth

While moving from here to Kameshwar temple via Veer Maruti, there were colourful old houses (not "Wada") which I clicked for you to see.


Most "Wadas" in the peth area had beautifully carved Ganesh Patti on their main entrance. Here is one such Ganesh Patti which has definitely seen better days in the past.

A Ganesh Patti

Veer Maruti Temple

Next on our trip was a glimpse of the "Veer Maruti" (Veer Hanuman) temple. Not much is known about the origin of this temple but it seems to be connected with commemorating the Veer Marathas who fought and died in Panipat. 

There a tradition of the eldest son of the family of such "Veers" comes for darshan of this Maruti one day after Holi Purnima. It is said that this darshan ensures the continued presence of those Veers of Panipat in Swarg. There is also an Utsav from Hanuman Jayanti for some days to commemorate the dead Maratha warriors of  Panipat. It is a very small temple in the middle of a road at Shaniwar Peth.

Murti here is very beautiful and small. It has a demon under its feet. Interestingly, this Maruti Murti has big Moustaches.

Veer Maruti, See the Moustaches of Shri Maruti

Kameshwar temple

From here we proceeded to Kameshwar temple. Situated at Nene ghat of Shanivar Peth, this temple and ghat were established by Sardar Lele about 250 years ago. It has a Nakkarkhana at the entry. This temple was closed for maintenance. We could not see the temple but it has a Shivalinga and three more Murtis, Shiva Parvati Vihwah, Devi Kameshwari and Ganesh. Since the temple was closed, unfortunately, no photographs.

Varad Vinayak aka Gupchup Ganpati

Gupchup Ganesh came next. It is actually Varad Vinayak Mandir. However, One gentleman named Gupchup gifted this temple to his Guru Moreshwar Shashtri Dixit, hence Gupchup Ganesh. It is not a very old temple but it is a beautiful temple. It has Wooden Sabha Mandap with Glass Chandeliers. 

Varad Vinayak (clicked through its latticed locked door) aka Gupchup Ganesh


It has Nagmandals on both sides of the “Garbh Gruha” of the temple. It is a privately owned temple.

Nag Mandal

Joshi Shri Ram Temple

Joshi Shri Ram Temple is again a privately owned temple with full wood and stone construction is about 150 years old. It had a Nakkarkhana which is now closed. It has columns and beams which are carved. This place gives very peaceful vibes and this temple is worth a visit.

The Entrance

Ram, Laxman and Janaki

Beautiful Wooden Columns

Harihareshwar Temple

Harihareshwar temple near the "Phutka Burj (Damaged Bastion) of Shanivar Wada in Shanivar Peth is over six hundred years. Peshwa's seem to have renovated it as Harihareshwar (Situated at Srivardhan in Konkan) is the family deity of Peshwas. 

Those who can't visit Harihareshwar in Konkan visit the temple here. The Shivaling is situated a little deep compared to sabha mandap but there are mirrors place at important locations to ensure darshans of Harihareshwar without going down the steep 5 or 6 stairs. There is a beautiful stone Nandi here. The Shikhar of this temple is also unique.

Harihareshwar. It has a unique Shikhar

Nandi@Harihareshwar

Shri Harihareshwar


Ganesh Temple in Harihareshwar complex

A Hanuman and Shani Temple of this complex

Ganesh Patti in one of the Temples

Belbag Vishnu Temple

Belbag Vishnu Temple is on busy Laxmi road at City Post Chowk. It is on a property that was owned by Nana Phadnis, the Peshwa Administrator and still is held by his descendants. This temple also is a private one and does not allow photography, hence I can not show you how beautiful and majestic this temple is.

Pune Nagar Vachanalaya

Pune had a Public Library as early as 1848 which was started by the British for common people. with the name Poona Native General Library. Now it is known as Pune Nagar Vachan Mandir, situated on busy Laxmi road. The photograph below shows its building constructed in 1889 in Budhwar Peth (perpendicular to Laxmi road) which now seems to have a Bank in it while Pune Nagar Vachan Mandir is just a few buildings away on Laxmi Road.

Poona Native General Library


Tulshi Bag

Our Heritage walk finished at Tulshi Bag, about which famous Marathi writer Chi Vee Joshi once satirically and famously wrote that Tulshi Bag is a famous market visited by ladies and girls of Pune and it happens to have a Ram Mandir (while it was originally a Ram Mandir in a Bag of Tulshi which acquired a very busy and crowded market around it with passing time).

Built around 18 century, This temple is within an enclosure with a Nakkarkhana. This has a full wooden Sabha Mandap and a Garbh Gruha of stone. Its Shikar is about 150 feet tall. This temple has been recently renovated and retains its old-world charm and its calm even within this busy and crowded market of Tulshi Bag. Photography inside was not allowed so only external area photographs for you.

Tulshi Bag Ram Temple. See the beauty of Wooden Structure. This temple  has a very high Kalash

With this, we finished this over two hours of heritage walk. Thanks to Sandeep Godbole, Pune, a full-time cyber Security professional and passionate history buff for conducting this walk.

Hope you all enjoyed reading this blog as much as I enjoyed putting it together rapidly.

 


8 comments:

  1. Very well written. You have nicely captured (in photos as well as in the words) the heritage of Pune.

    I was part of one of the initial Heritage Walks conducted by Sandeep. He is so passionate and hence probably the best guide one can get. Highly recommended.

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    Replies
    1. Thansk for your comments. Yes Sandeep is one of the best.

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  2. None better than Sandeep to provide a glimpse into the rich heritage of Pune. You were definitely with an authority on the history of this part. Your write up and pics makes me want to reach out to Sandeep once again:)

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