Introduction.
Bukhara is one of the most ancient
cities in the world. Evidence points out that this region has been inhabited for 5
millennia, however, the traced history surely indicates that Bukhara as we know
existed for at least 2000 years.
How to Reach Bukhara.
Bukhara is easily accessible from all major destinations of Uzbekistan through road and rail network. High-speed trains run between Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent. There are flights also between Tashkent and Bukhara.
Stay Options at Bukhara.
Bukhara is a famous tourist destination. If one ventures into the old city, it would be evident that almost every third house is a hotel, a boutique hotel. If one looks for hostels, there are a large number of them starting right from the city centre to the outer areas of this city. Stay options in Bukhara are plenty, suiting all pockets. Some of the Boutique Hotels in the old city are so beautiful that they look like parts of a palace. See the images below of one of the hotels, called Komil, where we stayed.
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| Decorative Cupboard |
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| Decore on the wall |
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| This is called Intricate Design |
Food Options in Bukhara.
Uzbek Cuisine is predominantly based on meat products. Meat lovers will enjoy eating Uzbek dishes. However, they may have to be careful to let the hotel know if they can or can not eat Beef.
And what about vegetarians? Vegetarians can manage veg choices in all four main destinations of Uzbekistan because many hotels in these four destinations have veg items on their menus. Vegetarianism is something Uzbeks learned just a few years ago. Jain food is at another level and your tour operator will have to work hard to manage Jain food for Indian Jain travellers.
Moving around in Bukhara.
Bukhara is really a walkers' paradise. Everything worth visiting, except for Summer Palace (Satorai Mokhi Khosa), is within walking distance of any hotel, hostel or B&B in the old city. However, one needs to take a cab to the Airport, Railway Station, Bus Stand or Taxi Stand, because they all are a little further from the old city. Taxi aggregate Yandex and other similar services exist in Uzbekistan. One can request their hotel also to book a cab for going to these places.
Places worth a visit.
Here is a list of some of the important places that are recommended for a visit when in Bukhara.
(a) Ismail Samani Mausoleum.
(b) Po-i-Kalyan Mosque and Kalyan Minor.
(c) Sitori Mokhi Khosa.
(d) Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah.
(e) Chashmai Ayub Mausoleum.
(f) Bolo Hauz Mosque.
(g) "The Ark" Citadel of Bukhara.
(h) Bahauddin Nakshabandi Memorial Complex.
(i) Chor (Char) Minor.
(j) Ancient Trading Domes / Abdullah Khan Tim (also known as Trading Domes).
Let us visit all of them one by one -
(a) Ismail Samani Mausoleum. It is the oldest building in Bukhara. This Mausoleum stands in a park that was erected during Soviet times. This place holds the graves of the Samanid Dynasty (819 to 1005 CE). They were the members of a Nobel family from Persia, who governed this area, then known as Transoxiana on behalf of the Bagdad-based Abbasid Caliphate.
This structure has historical significance as this is one of the earliest Islamic structures to survive in Central Asia. This is named after Ismail Samani, the most famous and just ruler of this dynasty. This tomb was built mostly by Zorastrain Artisens as that was the original religion of this region, with a design borrowed from a Persian Fire temple as, firstly, they knew that style well and secondly, there was hardly any precedence. In fact one of the Architectural Historians, Hillenbrand called it "A fire Temple in Islamic Dress".
Constructed fully with baked bricks, the Tomb has stunning designs, particularly inside. The elements used inside and outside have a mix of various designs, some of them distinctly Zoroastrian.
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| Ismail Samani Mausoleum (892 - 942 CE) |
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| Ismail Samani Mausoleum, beautiful Structure, the inner wall (b) Po-i-Kalyan Mosque and Kalyan Minor. Kalyan is supposed to mean, "At the feet of the great one". Po-i-Kalyan complex consists of three buildings, Kalyan Mosque, Kalyan Minor and Mir - i - Arab Madrassa. Originally built in 1127 CE, the mosque was soon destroyed by Genghis Khan in 1220. While he destroyed the Mosque, he was so enamoured with the Minor that he ordered it to be untouched. Kalyan Mosque was rebuilt in 1515 and Mir - i - Arab Madrassa was built in 1527. Both these buildings have beautiful ornate facades decorated with Majolika tiles. Kalyan mosque is a massive mosque with a big courtyard. It was made to rival Bibi Khanum Mosque of Samarkand. It must be remembered that Samarkand was then the central authority. Since the central authority had weakened, Bukhara Khanate wanted to make a mosque rivalling the main mosque of the central authority. This happened to be the third biggest mosque in central Asia. |
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| Po-i-Kalyan Mosque and Kalyan Minor |
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| Intricate Carvings on Kalyan (welfare) Mosque |
Mir - i - Arab is a functional Madarassa and hence very small area can only be visited.
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Madrasah Mir - i - Arab
(c) Sitori Mokhi Khosa. This complex housed the Palace of the Last Amir of Bukhara. Originally built in the 19th century by the father of the last Amir, this complex is situated 4 km north of the city. Housed in a fortress-like compound, made up of packed earth, it has a European-type palace where visitors and dignitaries were entertained and a private residence for Begums of the last Amir are the main buildings on the campus. The campus also has a Zoo, a huge garden and a guest that has now been made into a Museum of Folk Decorative Art. While the House of Wives and Mother is a simple house, the European palace houses some royal artefacts. |
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| Entrance Gate to Satorai Mohl Khosa, Summer Palace of Last Bukhara Amir |
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| Peacock in Summer Palace |
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| Summer House in the Summer Palace where Queen Mother lived on 2nd floor |
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| Dancing Peacock |
(d) Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah.
Built in 1622 -23 by the then diwan of Bukhara, Nodir Devonbegi in the then prime area of Bukhara known as Lyabi Khauz Square, it was originally built by the diwan as a Carvan Sarai to make some extra money.
The Amir, however, wanted to build a Madrassa closer to Khanaka, a place for Sufi saints to gather and meditate and here the Diwan was building a caravanserai right opposite the Khanaka. Sensing the wish of the Amir of that time, Diwan offered his completed building as a Madarassa though this building has images of animals and the sun at its entrance, very unlikely by Islamic standard for a madarassa. This place today has Uzbek cultural and fashion shows in the evening and its rooms are a vibrant marketplace for Uzbek artefacts, cloths and metalware.
This area also has a freshwater pond, Lyab i Hauz (made into Lyabi Khauz by Russians), eating places around it and Khoja Nasiruddin statue. Khoja Nasiruddin, a famous character in folklore stories in Central Asia and the Arabic world, is mostly about his foolishness but many stories are about his wit.
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Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah |
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| Mulla Nasiruddin Statue Kukeldosh Madarassa is the third building in the ensemble of Lyab-i-Hauz but archaeological finds now indicate that this Madarassa was a stand-alone structure. That has not changed people's belief of it being part of the Lyab-i-Hauz complex/ Consisting of over 100 rooms for students and many others for masters, this was the largest madrassah in Bukhara. |
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| Kukeldosh Madrasha (e) Chashmai Ayub Mausoleum. Those conversant with the Christian Religious book, the Holy Bible know about Saint Job. In the Arabic world, he was known as Ayub. It is believed that while he was in this area many centuries ago, where Bukhara developed over time, he found people of this area were dying of thirst as no water was available in the area. He is said to have struck his staff on the ground where this Mausoleum (and a freshwater well within it)and a spring sprang up from the ground for people to drink water. This legend makes Ayub a highly revered saint. Present Mausoleum was constructed in 12 CE and was extended by Timur two centuries later. This structure stands even today with the well-protected fresh water well. Paying respect to Saint Ayub and drinking a gulp of this miraculous well is a routine followed by many Bukharians. |
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| Chashmai Ayub Mausoleum Entrance |
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Chashmai Ayub Mausoleum (12 CE)
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(f) Bolo Hauz Mosque.
The only structure that survives from the original Registan (I suppose it means town square as there were registan in every city of this country), Bolo Hauz Mosque was constructed in the 17 century by the then Amir of Bukhara as a Public Mosque where the Amir and the commoner prayed together. The Amir wanted his subjects to know and feel that he is as much a common man as anyone else.
This mosque is therefore appropriately decorated with carved columns and a colourful roof, befitting a mosque where the Amir also prayed. Even today it's an operational mosque. Its painted and carved columns make it a beautiful sight.
This mosque is often called a mosque with 40 Columns. It has only 20 Columns. the balance 20 are the reflections of these 20 columns in the Houz in front of the mosque. See the image below.
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| Bolo Hauz Mosque (1712 CE) |
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| Bolo Hauz Mosque reflection, a mosque with 40 columns Every mosque has to have a minor, tower, for giving the call for the prayer. This mosque also has a Minor but unlike Indian mosques where the Minor is integrated, the Minor here is a bit offset. See the photo below. |
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| Bolo Hauz Mosque Minor |
(g) The Ark, Citadel of Bukhara.
The Ark of Bukhara traces its first construction in 3 BCE. This citadel has had many destructions and reconstructions in its long history. It served as the place of residence of the Amir of Bukhara and the high and mighty chieftains of the Amir. It was a siege which was later won by the Bolshevik troops from the Amir in 1920 CE when the Ark saw a lot of destruction. Today it serves as an imposing structure reminding of its glorious history and is a tourist place.
A few of the buildings, some from Timur's era are still there for visitors to see. They include Kurnish Kona, Amir's Durbar hall, Jami Masjid, Prime Misister's courtyard and a reception (greeting) hall for receiving visitors.
There is also a jail where prisoners were kept in the earlier days right under the horse stables. Needless to say, the prisoners had a terrible life in that prison.
Today this is a major tourist spot visited by every visitor to Bukhara.
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| The Ark, Citadel of Bukhara |
(h) Bahauddin Nakshabandi Memorial Complex.
Bahauddin Nakshabandi, a Sufi saint of the 14th century, who propagated the Nakshabandi school of Sufis was laid to rest here where the complex stands today. He had a huge following and is even said to have given his teachings to Amir Timur. He had a very simple philosophy, Heart with God and Hands with Work.
The place where he was buried was originally the site of a village, most likely of ancient Hindus (called Pagans). The present complex though was built in 16th CE by the then Amir. It's a big complex which consists of many things including many royal graves, a Hauz, a hospital, etc.
Bahauddin Nakshabandi did Haaj some 33 times. This place now is revered as local Macca with a belief that if one does a pilgrimage to Nakshabandi's grave three times from Bukhara on foot, it equates to one Haaj.
The imposing gate of the complex can be seen below.
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| Bab - e - Islam (Gate of Islam) to Bahauddin Nakshabandi Memorial Complex |
(i) Chor Minor (Char Minar).
This complex is sometimes called the Madarassa of Khalif Niyaz Kul, a rich businessman in Bukhara. He constructed this structure in 1807. Some people take this building as the gateway of the abovementioned Madarassa (which no more exists) but this place is more like a Sufi Prayer place or a mosque. This structure is unique because it has a very peculiar design not found in this region. The concept of char minar it seems came because of the visit of Mr Kul to the Taj Mahal in India prior to this structure being built.
All four minors of Chor Minor are different. Each one symbolises the religions present in this region. Buddhist and Christian symbols can be easily seen. These minors served different functions including as a pathway to the roof.
Overall it is an interesting and unique structure making it a must-visit place in Bukhara.
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| Chor (Char) Minor |
(j) Ancient Trading Domes / Abdullah Khan Tim (also known as Trading Domes).
Bukhara was the heart of the Silk Route. In the ancient times, goods were bartered. It is presumed that Bukhara was the place where goods exchanged hands. Bukhara has had several Bazar complexes, each one of typical domed structures, each one had its own Sarai for travellers to eat and rest and a blacksmith shop (The trade was mostly on Horseback and Camelback and they needed shoes to be fitted. Traders also had utility items to be repaired and weapons to be tended to).
Each complex specialises in one major trade item. The bazaar that you see in the photo below was called Zargaron or Glodsmith Bazar which once boosted of 36 goldsmiths operating from here.
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| One of the Trading Dome of Ancient times, Zargaron Bazar Another one below, known as Abdulla Kham Tim, was very costly and precious items were traded. |
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Another bazaar, close to Lyab Hauz was the biggest currency exchange of its time. only 4 such Bazars survive today and are marketplaces for carpets, knives and other such items. |
How Many Days Are Required to Visit Bukhara.
If one wants to see all the places Bukhara has to offer, enjoy local cuisine and experience local culture, at least 6 to 7 days may be needed. For usual travellers, two days are adequate but if 3 days can be spared, the visit would be a little relaxed. A rushed visit can be done in 1.5 days.
To Travel or Not to Travel to Bukhara, Our Recommendation.
Bukhara combines history, culture and a visual delight. Our recommendation is, that it is a must-visit place. Go for it.
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Very well written.
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