Uzbekistan Travel - Part II - Khiva

Khiva 

Two Uzbek Elders enjoying Tea (Couldn't get the official name)

A statue near Kalta Minor

Khiva Town Center

 Introduction

Khiva is an ancient city dating back to 6 CE. Some experts think it is even older than 6 CE. Situated in the extreme west-southwest of Uzbekistan. It was a Khanate or an independent kingdom for a long time. It was annexed by the Russian Empire in 1873 a subsequently by Communists in 1917 as the "Khorezm Soviet Republic". Furthermore, it was later merged with the Uzbekistan Soviet Republic of USSR in 1925.

Khiva was the first place in independent Uzbekistan to be declared a "World Heritage" Site. Khiva was (and is) divided into two parts, the outer town (Dichan Kala) and Inner Town (Itchan Kala). There was a fort with 11 gates that surrounded the Outer town and a Mudbrick fort that surrounded Itchan Kala. This place is not some Museum Piece. This place (Itchan Kala) is a living town with 50 monuments and about 300 Mud-Straw heritage houses with almost 3000 people living in them.

Khiva is a place that is seeped into history. This ancient town once upon a time controlled the Ivory trade between India, yes you got it right, India and the rest of the world before the Silk Road came into being. This place has an old-world charm.

How to reach Khiva

Khiva is connected with the rest of the towns of Uzbekistan by road as also by Rail. Rail connection from Khiva is slow speed, whereas Uzbekistan has high-speed trains between Tashkent and Bukhara. However, there is no airport in Khiva. The nearest airport is at Urgench, a big town about 35 km from Khiva. There are flights from all major cities of Uzbekistan to Urgench. This being an International airport, there are also flights from Turkey, France, Italy, Russia, etc.

Places to Stay

There is a hotel or a guest house or a homestay in almost every house in Khiva. Availability and range of accommodation are thus hassle-free. 

Places of Interest

Khiva old city (Itchan Kala) inside the walled enclosure is a living museum. almost all the buildings except houses and hotels have some story to tell the visitors. thus whole of Khiva's old city is a massive place of Interest. But if I have to make a list to narrow down places of interest in Khiva, it would look like this as described below -

1. Khiva Citadel Itchan Kala (Qula in local language) with its 4 gates.

Khiva Citadel is where everything is. This small fort with 4 gates has brick walls which are even now covered in Mud and Straw mixture which is renewed every 4 years. This wall is 10 meters high and has  Bastions.

This enclosure is built in a square format with each gate on the arms of the square controlling access to it from that side. Once upon a time, Khiva was known as a city with 1000 Minor. Today there are 51 historical monuments and 250 houses inside this Kala.

Itchan Kala, The ancient fortress, External view

The Western Gate, its morning time so shadows can be seen

Bird eye  view of Khiva

Ichan Kala Wall

2. Djuma Mosque (Jumma Mosque). 

Tracing its history to over 1000 years (at least), but built (or maybe renovated) in 1778 - 1782, the Djuma (Jumma) masjid of Khiva is an unusual structure. It's a single large hall of 45 x 55 meters, where the roof, which has three open skylights, is supported by 213 wooden columns dating back to various periods and civilizations. The symmetry of the wooden columns is such that the Prayer Leader can be seen by all the worshippers.

Another unusual feature of this mosque is, it has no dome and it has no Minar within it, though there is a cigar-shaped seven-stage Minor next to it which was built during the reconstruction/renovation of the mosque between 1778 and 1782. another thing that stands out is, this Jumma mosque has three entrance doors but they are simple wooden carved doors, with the main door which is 700 years old,  unlike the grand entrance doors of all other mosques.

It is impressive to observe differently carved wooden columns and also the interplay of lights and shadow due to skylights in an otherwise dark hall. 

There are some views that this was originally a Zoroastrian place of worship which got converted to a mosque after the Arab conquest of this area.

Jumma Masjid, ancient door (Supposed to be origibal)

Close-up of the Door

Inside the Moaque, Wooden columns can be seen

Mesmerised by the carvings on the columns

The Place for Prayer Leader

3. Kuhna Ark. A citadel within Itchan Kala, adjacent to the Western Wall of the fort, this place, Kuhna Ark is a self-contained fortress within a fort. It has been in existence since 12 CE but was raised and new construction came up as a complex built over various periods, starting with Arang Khan who started in 17th CE. Soon it was razed again during the Persian invasion. The place that we see today was started by Inaq Iltuzar in 1804 and its construction was continued by his successors.

This citadel has various sections which serve different functions. some of the notable sections of Kunha Ark are The Summer Mosque, Reception Courtyard, AK Sheikh Bobo Bastion, and Heram.

Bobo Bastion, which is part of the western wall of Itchan Kala is a place to get a beautiful bird's eye view of Khiva’s old town.

Main Entrance to Kunha Ark

Close up

View from Bobo Bastion

Islam Hoja Minor view

Inner Mosque, Kuhna Ark

Meeting Room

4.  Pahalvon Makhmood Mausoleum. It is the final resting place of Pahalvon Makhmood, a Sufi saint, an Iranian Wrestler, and a very honest person who always earned by wrestling or other trades and gave away most of what he earned to the poor and needy. He died in 1326 and was buried here.

His tomb remained a simple and humble one like any other tomb till 1810. The grand Mausoleum that we see here was built in 1810 by the ruler of Khiva at that time, Mohammad Rahim, who championed Pahalvon Makhmood as the patron saint of Khiva. Pahalvon Makhmood's Tomb, from its earlier Avatar, became a grand building that eventually became the final resting place of the rulers of Khiva. This Mausoleum is built in the traditional style with a huge dome, many rooms and halls, and many tombs of the rulers. Set in a big area, it also has a small garden at the entrance and a well, the water of which is famous for giving miraculous relief. The locals and the Iranians have tremendous faith in the powers of Pahalvon Makhmood. It is a place that is not to be missed.

Mausoleum Campus Mail Entrance seen from inside

Main Entrance to Mausoleum 

One of the Royal Tomb

Beautiful Decoration

Pahalwan Makhmood Tomb

5.  Ali Kuli Khan Madarasa. Built in 19th CE,  by Ali Kuli Khan, the then Ruler of Khiva, this 19th century Madrassa is one of the most beautiful buildings in Khiva. Considered one of the most decorative buildings in Khiva, this madrassa is adored with Black, Blue, and White majolica for decoration. This madrassa also had a big library and this was open to all the madrassas students of Khiva. Missed clicking this place.

6. Kalata Minor and Mohammad Amir Khan Madrassa.  Also built in the 19th CE, it was built by Mohammad Amir  Khan, the then Ruler of Khiva, this 19 th century Madrassa was intended to be a beautiful building that would stand till eternity (as per an Arabic inscription found on this madrassa gate). This Madarassa, when built, defied the logic of having only 99 rooms in a Madarass of those days and has 125 rooms. Some people attributed the early death of Mohd. Amir Khan, by beheading by Turkmen tribes, to him defying the diktat of having 99 or fewer rooms  (some superstation I must say). Out of these 125 rooms or cells spread around the central courtyard on two floors, 120 were for the students and five rooms were for the teachers.

Mohammad Amir Khan also built Kalta Minor or short minar. It was not meant to be a short minar as evidenced by the huge diameter of the base (needed to build this minor to a great height) but its construction stopped after Mohammad Amir Khan's death. Decorated with very attractive turquoise tiles, Kalta Minor is possibly the most photographed monument in the whole of Khiva.

Kalta Minor

 

Inside the Mohammad Amir Khan Madrassa, Now a Hotel

Entrance to the Complex

 

Connecting Bridge between Madrassa and Minor

Another view of Madrassa

8.  Islam Hoja Minor and Madarassa. This minor and madrassa, built in the early 20th century are named after the then Vazir of Iskander Khan, ruler of Khiva. the naming of a monument in anyone else’s name other than the ruler was a very unlikely thing but it did happen due to the foresight and planning of Islam Hoja. There is a story about it but it’s too long to be added here, The 

Minor here, which is 44 meters high and erected over a 10 m base,  is the tallest Minor in the whole of Khiva. On payment of a fee, it is possible to visit this minor up to the top and enjoy majestic views of Khiva.

Islam Hoja Minot (Tallest in Khiva) and Madrassa

9.   Tash Khauli (Stone Palace). Built between 1832 and 1841 by the then ruler, Ali Kuli Khan, this is the most decorated building in Khiva. It has three courtyards including a reception courtyard and a courtyard to deliver justice, what stands out is the courtyard for use by Ali Kuli Khan, his 4 official wives and some of his concubines (44 to be precise).  the rooms of Ali Kuli Khan and his wifes are on one side of the courtyard and on the other side are the rooms for his mistresses. 

The decoration here, in this complex, is of stones, tiles and Majolika panes, Marble carvings and wooden columns which are carved and these columns are supported by stone bases at the bottom.

The throne room is on the western enclosure and the Sleeping room of Khan is in his personal quarters in the Eastern wing. 

Sleeping Room

This place is now a Museum 

Personal Quarters

How many days are needed for visiting Khiva.

The time needed to visit Khiva depends on how deep your interests are in Culture and Architecture. For a usual tourist, one and a half to two days is enough. On the other hand, if one has to see everything that Khiva has to offer, many more days are needed.

What is Our Recommendation?

When visiting Uzbekistan, Khiva is a must-visit destination that is not to be omitted from your destination list.