Uzbekistan Travel Part IV - Samarkand

SAMARKAND

 Introduction. Situated almost in the centre of Uzbekistan, Samarkand is yet another famous and historic city of Uzbekistan. This city has been in existence since 7 BCE. Once upon a time, Bukhara and Samarkand were the biggest cities on the Silk Road between China and Europe. There is evidence that Alexzander the Great in 329 BCE.

Today, Samarkand is the second-largest city in Uzbekistan, with a population of about 5 Lakh. Historically and even now, this city is a melting pot of cultures and an important centre for education. 

This city is divided into two parts. Historic Samarkand has all the old buildings, some dating from Timur's time when Samarkand was the capital of Timur. The modern part of Samarkand was built during the Tsarist era when Samarkand was won over by the Russian Empire.

How to Reach Samarkand. 

By Air. Well-connected with major cities across the region including Moscow and Saint Petersburg, Istanbul, etc. as well as Tashkent, it is easy to reach this city by air. 

By Rail. Samarkand is also connected by High-Speed rail with Tashkent and Bukhara. Slower trains are also available but surprisingly they also cost nearly the same as High Speed trains.

By Road. Road connectivity between all the major cities of Uzbekistan exists but road travel is slower and less comfortable compared to rail and air travel.

Stay Options at Samarkand.

Samarkand is the most well-known destination in Uzbekistan, and stay options are the last of the worries. It boasts of all ranges of hotels, a variety of B & Bs, Boutique hotels and hostels offering bunk beds and private rooms.

These accommodations are available around Registan Square and also the Russian part (fully local but known as the Russian Part as that is where Russians were when Uzbekistan was part of the USSR). Russian part is supposed to have some nightlife too.

The range of budget is also as vast as the available choices. Hence, worries about accommodation should not bother any traveller.

Food Options in Samarkand.

Samarkand is a foodie's paradise for Uzbek food. A variety of Kebabs, Pilaf (Pulav)  , and various meat dishes are the attractions of Uzbek cuisine. Availability of Indian food is limited. Internet searches show just two places where Indian food is available. 

However, an Indian man from Bangalore opened an Indian Restaurant in Samarkand in 2022. It is called "The Indian Kitchen" which is located about two km from Registan Square and is listed on Google Maps.

But if one is comfortable eating non-veg food, Uzbekistan in general and Samarkand in particular is a place to be.

Moving around in Samarkand.

The best way to move around is by Yellow taxis, which are easily available and not costly. They have a fixed fare for a trip within the town and another fare for trips to the outskirts.

Another option is Tram. Trams are comfortable but have very limited reach. One can travel by tram between the railway station and Siyab Bazar.

City Buses do exist, but they are confusing and complicated. Though cheap, they are better avoided.

Places worth a visit in Samarkand.

Samarkand, once one of the most prominent stops on the Silk Route, is, full of monuments worth visiting. 

Registan Square.

The most well-known and famous landmark in Samarkand is a trio of three famous buildings, Tillya Kori, a stunning building with a lot of decors in golden colour, and it contains a small mosque, Sherdor Madarasa and Ulugh Beg Madarasa.

Registan Square, Tiliya Kori in the center

Tilliya Kori

Ulughbeg Madarasa

Ulughbeg Statue in this Madarass

Tiliya Kori

Motifs of Sun, Tiger and Deer on the main gate.

Inside a Madarassa in Registan

Sher Dor Madarasa inside Decoration

Registan, meaning Desert in the Persian language, actually means city square in Uzbek parlance. This place came into being between 1369 and 1405 CE.

These three above-mentioned buildings are some of the well-preserved monuments of that era, however, they also have had their share of neglect and had to be renovated. Here are some shots of photographs of the renovation time.

The courtyard between these three buildings is huge and that helps visitors photograph the facade of the buildings well. Visiting Registan Square in the night is a great experience, with the whole square looking stunningly beautiful in its night illumination. 

Night Mood of Registan. This picture is a bit blurred but kept it here to show the beauty

Just stunning

Tillya Kori, the central building which was a madrassa and a mosque, is at its golden opulent best, and it's worth every second of your visit.

Enjoy the Grandure

Vertical Panorama

Intricate Inlay Work

The Gur-e-Amir (Mausoleum of Amir Timur).

 Timur Lang (Lame), a Mongol ruler who united the demoralized Uzbek Nation and ruled a huge empire from Europe to the west and the Chinese border to the west, Delhi, India to the south and the Russian border to the north, died of Pneumonia in 1405 CE during winter.

He had got a simple Crypt (stone chamber) built at Shakhrisabz, his home town, as his own grave. The present Gul-e-Amir complex was the memorial and resting place of his grandson and his heir apparent, who died a year ago. However, when Timur died, it was peak winter and the pass leading to Shakhrisabz was snowbound, hence he was buried in the complex made for his son.

The Gul-e-Amir complex also has many other tombs of Timur's family members and his spiritual teachers. There are many interesting stories about the tomb of Timur but it is important to note that what is seen on the surface are just the markers while all the actual tombs are in the basement.

Gur-e-Amir Complex

A long shot

Inlay work at the gate

Inside

A Carved wooden door

Kabragah, the Graveyard of male members of Amir Timur and his Guru

This tank was supposed to keep Pomegranate juice to be fed to soldiers before war (Not sure of it)

It is also worth visiting this complex at night, like the Registan complex, when it projects a very different mood to the viewers.

Night mood of Gur-e-Amir

Bibi Khynam Mosque.

This mosque was the most important mosque in the 15th century when Timur built it. Timur started building this mosque even before the India Conquest. After his conquest of India, when this mosque was almost ready, this mosque revealed construction flaws. These flaws were corrected on Timur's order. He named it after his favourite wife Bibi Khanyam. When we visited there, it was under renovation.

Another reason for its fame was that it had the world's second-largest Quran, kept here on the marble Quran stand (Photograph below). The Quran is now shifted to a museum in Tashkent. Enjoy few photos of this mosque below -

Inside the Mosque, it was under renovation

Quran Stand for the Massive Quran

Conclusion.

Samarkand is part of historical trilogy of cities in Uzbekistan. It has the right mix of the ancient and the modern. Dont even think of skipping Samarkand while visiting Uzbekistan.

Uzbekistan Travel - Part I - Tashkent

Uzbekistan

Introduction

Uzbekistan is one among five "Stans" of Central Asia, The others being Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Turkmenistan. It's a landlocked country but remember, this country or whatever it was known in its earlier avatar controlled first the Ivory trade from India to the rest of the world, and later it also controlled the famous Silk Route between China and the rest of the world.

It is also an erstwhile Soviet Republic of what was known as the USSR. The gains of being part of the USSR are a 98 % Literacy rate, good infrastructure and a modern state with modern society. It has High-Speed railway trains of Spanish Origin. Tashkent also had a Metro for a long time (since 1977).

Uzbekistan is full of history. Its most famous ruler was Amir Timur (Timur Lung as we know it) whose rule extended from China to Istanbul and Delhi to Southern Russia. That is how most of the famous tourist attractions are formed and built. While the world remembers him as a very cruel conqueror who killed nearly 5 % of the world population of that time during his campaign, he is revered in his homeland because he arose a downtrodden and depressed nation and took them to a very high position.

Visa 

Indian need to obtain a suitable visa. For visitors, it is a tourist visa. The application process is online simple and quick. It generally takes three days to get an e-visa and a single-entry tourist visa costs 25 USD (A double-entry visa cost is 35 USD).

Currency 

Their currency is called Som. One Som is equal to 0.0072 INR as I write this blog in the month of  April 23 (INR 100 - Som 13931.84). 

Climate

Summers are hot here. The end of July / early August sees temperatures as high as 50 deg C. Winters are cold. The best time to visit is from March to Jun and from Sept to November.

Cities worth visiting

There is a good number of cities and towns worth visiting. However, one can visit the four most important cities/ locations of Uzbekistan in a quick trip of 8 to 10 days. These places are -

(a) Tashkent.

(b) Samarkand.

(c) Bukhara.

(d) Khiva

We will take you on a virtual trip to Uzbekistan in four parts. In this first part, we are heading to Tashkent.

Tashkent

It can be reached from Delhi by a direct Uzbekistan air flight. There are many other airlines flying to Tashkent with one stop. The direct flight takes around 3 hours. Tashkent Airport is very close to the city and most hotels can be reached in around 15 to 40 minutes from the airport.

Tashkent today is a modern city which was rebuilt by the Soviet Union in 1966 after the original city was destroyed in an earthquake. However, Tashkent as a human settlement is existed since 3 BC.

Today this city boasts wide roads, a lot of forested areas, well laid out houses and above all many gardens. Even the main roads have forested walkways along them with flower beds.

Tashkent, wide and beautiful Roads

Places of interest

Tashkent is full of museums of various types. It may be worthwhile to visit some of them. The same is the case with parks and gardens. There are many places worth visiting in Tashkent. The must-visit places of Tourist attractions in Tashkent are listed below - 

(a)  Minor Mosque, also called White Mosque.

(b)  Hazrati Imam Complex.

(c) Kukeldash Madarassa.

(d) Amir Timur Square and Park.

(e) Uzbekistan Hotel.

(f)  Museum of Applied Arts.

(g) Monument of Courage.

(h)  Chorsu Bazar.

(i) Tashkent City Park.

The Virtual Tour of Tashkent.

Let us go and visit them all.

(a) Minor Mosque, also called White Mosque.

Built only in 2014, this is a modern mosque made with white marble (hence also called a white mosque). This mosque can accommodate about 2400 worshipers at any given time. It's a grand place with a huge carpet and beautiful Chandeliers in the prayer hall. The prayer hall can be entered (even for a visit) by only men after removing their shoes. The women, on the other hand, see the inside hall of the mosque from a different entrance, but they are not allowed to enter the main hall. Despite being a new construction, this mosque is visited by a large number of tourists for its beauty and grandness.

Minor aka White Mosque

Outside the Mosque

Grand Frontage

Mosque dome and Skylight

Inside decore

Massive Prayer Hall

Big Carpet

(b) Hazrati Imam Complex.

Located in the old residential district of mud houses of Uzbek style, this complex, also known as Hast Imam complex, is the centre of religious activities in Tashkent. This complex is built around Mazar Kaffaliya ash Shashi and is located in the centre of the old avatar of Tashkent called Shash. He was the first Imam as also a preacher of Islam in Tashkent. He got his Islamic education in the Madrasas of Bukhara and Samarkand. Other than the Mazar of the Great (Hazrat) Imam, this area also has a Jami Masjid, A library and Kukeldash Madarassa. This place also has the headquarters of Spiritual Education in Uzbekistan.

Entry to the Complex

Closer Look

Islamic Messages on the tiles

The Mazar of the Saint

Other Tombs

(c) Kukeldash Madarassa. 

Built in the 16 century and named after the Vazir of the Ruling Khan.this Madarass is near Chor-su Bazar. Constructed with Yellow Bricks, this place is very similar to one of the Madarassa of Khiva in design.

The Madarass courtyard (Photo curtsey - Internet)

(d) Amir Timur Square and Park.

AmirTimur is an Icon in Uzbekistan. There are many places named after him. However, this place, Amir Timur Square, did not have this name till 1994. Originally it was built as a Park by the then Governer of Russian Turkestan in 1882, this place has had many Avatars. It was once called Revolution Square after Russian Revolution. Subsequently, a Stalin Statue was placed there. Karl Marx's Statue replaced Stalin's when all the Stalin Statues were removed. Finally, after the independence of Uzbekistan, it was renamed "Amir Timur Square". Amir Timur's horse Mounted Statue was placed here in 1995.

Amit Timur Square

Amer Timur's Horse Mounted Statue

(e) Uzbekistan Hotel. 

One of the most famous landmarks of Tashkent, this hotel was built during Soviet time in the year 1974. Amir Timur Square is right opposite this hotel. This hotel has over 200 rooms, decorated in period style with wooded furniture. It is a great experience to visit this place.

Uzbekistan Hotel

It is Grand and an Icon of Tashkent

(f)  Museum of Applied Arts.

Billu in 1927 in a traditional house belonging to a Russian Diplomate, this place opened in 1927 as the Museum of Handicraft. IN 1977, it was designated as a state museum showcasing over 7 K pieces of the work of Uzbek Craftsmen. The displayed works include Pottery, ceramics, Ikkath clothes, traditional clothes, etc.

Uzbek Textile

Loom weaving Ikkath cloth (this cloth is originally an Uzbek creation)

Uzbek Embroidery

(g) Monument of Courage.

This beautiful place was built to honour the dead of the massive 8.4 Richter Scale Earthquake of 1966. This place has a stopped clock which shows the time when this earthquake occurred and a statue of a Woman, a man a child representing the courage of the Uzbek people amid challenges like earthquakes.

The Momerial

(h)  Chorsu Bazar.

This ancient bazaar is identified by its trademark Blue dome under which the central part of the Bazaar is situated. The name of this famous bazaar, "Chorsu" means "Crossroads". It must have been situated at a cross road in ancient Tashkent. It is a very big traditional bazaar selling almost everything that a family needs. From meat and Plotry products to bread, freshly baked ones, to clothes to local eateries, dry fruits, resins and many more such things. This is one place where one gets to connect with locals by way of seeing the ware that they buy and sell, clothes that they wear, and food that they eat. This is also one place where there are wood-fired ovens in its bread section baking fresh aromatic and soft Uzbek bread. One can see the process and eat oven-fresh bread.

This Tashkent Bread is baked in open ovens

Edible baskets of bread dough for keeping salad and then eaten after the salad is finished

(i) Tashkent City Park. 

Built in the year 2019, this park is the youngest among various parks of Tashkent, has the largest park area in Uzbekistan and is a modern park, entertainment centre and performance arena. It has a Musical fountain which has 10-minute shows from 6.30 pm every hour. There are performances held here on a regular basis. This also is a full family picnic place with eateries serving many types of cuisine. The musical fountain shows are enjoyable and they can be watched while one eats in one of the eating places in this park.

Entrance to City Park

Sunset seen from the park

Lake Inside the Park

One of the Selfie Point

Summary

The important places to visit in Tashkent which are mentioned above need a full action-packed day to rapidly explore them. If one believes in slow travel, such travellers need two days to explore Tashkent at leisure. 

Tashkent is a good primer to a full Uzbekistan trip and a must-visit place.