Wednesday, November 25, 2020

Estonian Capital with Centuries of History - Tallinn

Visit Tallinn

Background.

Situated on the northern end of Baltics, on the southern shore of Gulf of Finland on Baltics Sea, Tallinn is the capital city and the most famous and important Port of Estonia. This is a city of over 4 lakh population and it is the biggest and the liveliest city of Estonia. 

This capital city has the right mix of Medieval and Modern. The Historic town of Tallinn, the old city, once inhabited by 8000 people has two parts, Upper and Lower. It has the ancient building, churches, Town Hall, Town square and much such building. As for the modern part of Tallinn, read on.

While Tallinn has been a historical city, interestingly, today Tallin is the major IT city of Europe and was called Silicon Valley of the Baltics by the New York Times. The other modern part of Tallin is areas of Kalamaja, The Music Festival Arena, etc. The semi-historical part of Tallinn is the Kadriorg Palace. 

A scene from Tallinn

How to Reach.

Tallinn is reached from Helsinki by ferry or ship across the Gulf of Finland. The journey lasts for about 2 and a half hours.  It can also be reached by air from all across the world. Buses run between Tallin and Riga with connecting services to rest of Europe. It can be reached by rail from Moscow and Saint Petersburg. Tallinn Airport is well connected to the city and is not far from the city, just 5 km.  One can reach almost anywhere in Tallin city in less than half an hour. 

Accommodation.

Tallinn has not remained low cost as it used to be, however, it is cheaper than many other European cities. The primary reason for costs going up is the arrival of a large number of tourists from across the world in large numbers. That should not dishearten a traveller looking to visit Tallinn because it has a range of accommodation to offer for every type of traveller and all type of budgets. There are hostels for everyone in general and young and restless in particular. There are small hotels, budget hotels, luxury hotels and finally B & Bs of various kind to suit all tastes and budgets.

Moving Around.

his city is compact and every place is well connected by tram, bus or Trolley Bus. Which one of these modes do I recommend? Well, all are good and worth use but the recommended mode of transport in Tallin (if one is reasonably fit) is what I call "Bus no "11" or what people in African nation  Kenya call "Footsubushi", in simple words, the most recommended mode of transport in Tallin is to take a Walk.

Food

Tallinn has a large number of food options. It is worth experiencing the local food to get to know Estonian culture better but there are options for various tastes and cuisines including Indian cuisine. Indian Restaurants are available in Tallin including at Town Hall Square. 

Places recommended for a visit.

The Old Town 

    Toompea Hill (Cathedral Hill) 
    Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral
    Parliament House 
    Saint Olaf’s Church 
    Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin
    Viewing Platforms 
    "Kiek in de Kok" Tower and Fortification Museum 
    Saint Nicholas Church 
    Town Hall

Freedom Square 

Kalamaja 

Kadriorg Palace and Park 

Let us start our travel in Tallinn. Follow me  – 

The Old Town

The old town is a World Heritage Site. While earliest human settlement at Tallin (old name Reval) is 5000 years old, the town as a city existed from 1248. The old town traces its existence from that era. One important and interesting fact is, this Old Town has never been destroyed unlike many other cities of that period. 

It had two distinct parts, Upper town mainly built on Toompea Hills and castle, the original seat of power of this region and Lower Town, where commoners of the town lived. Most places of interest are in the Toompea (Cathedral) hill area and a few in lower (old) Town. In any case, both areas are ancient and medieval.
Cobbled Streets of Old Town

Let us see all that the Old Town has to offer.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.

The biggest attraction of Old Town is Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It is the most photographed building in Tallinn. It is not as old as the old town as it was built between 1884 and 1900 during the Russian Rule of Tsar. It was built in the memory of a 1300 century saint Alexander Nevsky. It is one of the largest cathedral and an orthodox church. This richly decorated church has 11 bells cast in Saint Petersburg, one out of them weighs 16 ton which is more than the combined weight of the balance 15 bells put together. It also has three Alters. The building itself is very beautiful. See it here. 

The Majestic Alexender Nevsky Cathedral

As lovely as it gets
Cathedral captured from the Estonian Parliament

Inside the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Parliament Building.

The Estonian Parliament building is a recent structure which was constructed after the declaration of independence by Estonia in 1918. The building, which was constructed over a site of an old convent got completed in 1922. It is the only Parliament built-in Expressionist style. This building was used by the Supreme Soviet of Estonia SSR. It may not be a very notable building in comparison to Alexander Nevsky but its location opposite the Cathedral ensures footfalls here. In any case, who would miss getting photographed with the parliament of a country. 

Estonian Parliament

Me and Estonian parliament


Saint Olaf’s Church 

This Church is supposed to have been built in 12 Century. It happened to be the main church and meeting point for the people of Tallinn before the conquest of Tallinn by Denmark. The earliest records of this church belong to 1267. This church has been exclusively rebuilt in 14 century AD. It has seen its uses changing. It was originally a Catholic Church, then it was made into a Lutheran Church, finally, it has become Baptist Church. The Spire of this church is one of the tallest structure standing tall at 123.8 m. One can go up to the Spire-top and have a grand view of Tallin provided one is fit enough to climb 232 steps to the top. 

The tallest tower is of Saint Olaf's Church. Very difficult to photograph it from a close quarter

Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin

Built around the same time as Saint Olaf’s Church but located in Toompea Hills or Upper town, this church is dedicated to Virgin Mary. This is the only building which survived mostly intact in a 17th-century fire in the Tallinn city of those days. Another fact is, this church has tombstones from 13 to 18 century AD, of many famous personalities of that era. This church has murals and statues related to Christianity. Another name for this church is Dome Church (also called Toom Kirke in Estonian). 


Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin

Viewing Platforms. 

The Toompea Hill has two viewing platforms from where one gets a fantastic view of Tallin Town. These platforms are named Patkul Viewing Platform (Patkul Vaateplats) and Court House Viewing Platform (Kohtuotsa Vaateplats). The red-roofed Tallinn town presents a grand spectacle and the churches and towers of the fortification add further charm to it. One of the walls of Kohtuotsa Platform has few beautiful quotes painted there which can be seen in one of the photographs below. 

View from Patkul Viewing Platform


Another View

Beautiful Red Roofed Tallinn from Kohtuotasa View Point

Another View
A Great Quote on the wall, In the foreground, you see the one who rules my life


Kiek in de Kok Tower and Fortification Museum.

This Artillery Tower of Toompea Hill fortification is one of the towers of this castle. There are other towers too including Tall Hermann Tower, considered the symbol of Estonian Independence ( Hermann tower flew the Estonian flag from its independence in 1918 till 1940. The flag was hoisted yet again, in 1989 after re-independence of Estonia from Soviet Occupation). Coming back to Artillery Tower and Fortification Museum, It s a complex of Artillery Tower, three other towers and underground Bastion passage which is worth a visit.

Interestingly, the name of this tower (Kiek in de Kok) in german language means a peep into the Kitchen. This name came to this tower because being a tall tower with surrounding houses that were short, the soldiers in the tower could see into the kitchens of nearby houses, Since this tower was part of the city defence, there are nine cannon shells of Livonian war still lodged into its walls.

Kiek in de Kok

Bastion

The Museum

Saint Nicholas Church

Originally built in the 13th century with a defensive purpose when the city did not have fortifications. Once the fortification came up, it lost its defensive function and it reverted to only being a church. It suffered a lot of damage during the Soviet bombing of Tallinn during WW II. Post-war, it has been restored. It now houses the Neguliste Museum which is a part of the Art Museum of Tallinn. It is worth a visit, particularly for Art Lovers.

Saint Nicholas Church

Mayor's Staircase, Connecting Upper and Lower Town

Town Hall (Reakoja Plats)

Situated in Lower Town of Tallinn Old Town, this Town Hall was built in 1322. The Tallinn Town Hall and square has been the heart of the medieval town of Tallin and still one of the center of attraction. In Summer, Town Hall Square hosts Food Stalls, Markets and open door concerts in summers and in winters, it holds the Christmas Market with a Christmas Tree display. The Christmas Tree display started in the year 1441 and has been continuing for 579 years without any break. 

Town Hall



Town Hall Square



Another View
The Square and the Town Hall

With our visit to Townhall square, we have seen most of the Old Town. Let us now shift to the edge of the Old town and visit Freedom Square. 

Freedom Square

This place is on the southern edge of Old town. This square has a Cross of Liberty Tower,  Saint John's Church and an underground Market. But that is just a matter of details, whereas, it has a very sacred place in Estonian Hearts, it is the Pride of Estonians. Cross of Liberty is a column built to commemorate the War of Independence (1918 – 1920). Today it serves at meeting ground and ground for concerns, etc.

Saint John's Church

Inside Saint John's Chruch at Freedom Square


The Victory Column

Kalamaja

Historical Fishing Harbour of Tallinn (Kalamaja means Fish House in local language), it became a hub of industrialisation in 1870 when Tallin – Saint Petersburg railway line was built. Along with the industries came the  Industrial labour into this Tallinn suburb.

The famous wooden houses of Kalamaja were once built to accommodate the influx of this labour force. Kalamaja became secretive Soviet Military base post soviet occupation of Estonia and remained so till Estonia achieved freedom from Soviet occupation. Kalamaja has reinvented itself as a creative area full of bars, restaurants and new generation shops. 

This area is missed out by visitors (visitors get fixated with Old Town, which, no doubt is wonderful). It is our opinion that if you want to feel the young and restless energy of Tallinn, you must visit Kalamaja. While one is in this area, one should not miss visiting Telliskivi Creative city, Depoo (Restaurants in old railway coaches), Balti Jaama Market and other restaurants, Bakeries and Bars. There are some exhibitions for art lovers in this area, Remains old industries are still there but most are converted to a new business. 

Telliskivi Creative City

Deppo, the Rail Coach Restaurants

Restaurants with sitting in Coach and also outdoor. 

Local Market

Kadriorg Palace and Park

Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley. This is a beautiful Palace originally built by Peter the Great, the Tsar of Russia after his victory over Estonia and he built it for his wife Catherine (the Great). This palace has seen very good days and very bad days. It has seen care as well as neglect. It has been the residence of the first president of Estonia as also visiting Kings. Today its an Art Gallery (part of Estonian Art Gallery) and a beautiful place to visit. It has its own garden in its courtyard which is a great garden. The garden outside is also huge and has museums in it. Do not forget to visit Kadriorg Palace.


Garden of Kadriorg Palace



Kadriorg Palace



Conclusion.

We Indians are focused on Europe’s better-known destinations and miss the Gems of Europe, the Baltics and Eastern Europe. These areas are historical, fabulous and above all still less explored and more economical. We should consider visiting these areas in Europe. Feel free to reach me out in case you need to discuss a bit more about Tallinn.

When are you making a trip to Tallinn? 

😀😀😀😃😃

Notes -

1.  All photos CopyRight - 2019, Cmde Harshad Datar

2.  Photographs can be used by anyone after obtaining permission. Permission would be given free of cost but it must be obtained.

3 Contact me at datarh@gmail.com and also on enquiry@happystepstravels.com

12 comments:

  1. Very interesting
    I have Estonia on my travel list hence certainly will trouble you when dates are decided
    The conclusion is perfect :: Indian tourist must explore such beautiful areas

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  2. Very nicely written blog sir, u have covered all aspects, very informative, will get in touch with u for more details,Regards

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  3. Very beautiful city.very European in its character with mix of Slavic. Great to see you touring beautiful places.keep going lots to see.

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  4. Your blog encourages me to travel

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  5. Nicely covered sir. Could you please share your itinerary with me on my email anilgonsalves@gmail.com. Thanks

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for liking it. You want the itinerary of mine for Tallin or the whole trip? Tallinn was part of a 28 day programme of mine.

      DO confirm.

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  6. Took me back to the wonderful 2 days we spent here :) very well written & beautiful photos to go with it!

    ReplyDelete