Khajuraho, Orchha and Jhansi Trip. Day One - Jabalpur Khajuraho Road Trip.

Road Trip - Jabalpur - Khajuraho 

We as a family have a Travel Bug. We seem to have wheels under our feet. We seem to take off (only figuratively though since most trips are by surface transport and not by air) on a trip. 

Our recent trip to Jabalpur was no different. Firstly, we literarily took a flight from Mumbai to Jabalpur.  Then of all the ten days of our program, we spent just 5 days at Jabalpur and in those five days, we made two "day trips". And what did we do in those balance days? We took off on a road trip from Jabalpur to Khajuraho, Orchha, and Jhansi (the same one, Jhansi ki Rani wali). Now, most of you will agree that we are travel crazy people.

In this blog, I am covering our day one of the trip, the Jabalpur to Khajuraho road trip, and whatever we could on arrival at Khajuraho. Let us start the trip.

The Route.

Jabalpur Khajuraho Map

Analysis of route on Google Map indicated three routes.

Jabalpur - Tendukheda - Aman Ganj - Panna and Khajuraho by MP SH 37 and 49.

Jabalpur - Sihora -  Kunwarpur - Amanganj - Panna - Khajuraho by NH 30, MP SH 49 and NH 39.

Jabalpur - Katni - Maihar - Panna - Khajuraho by NH 30 and NH 39.

The route via Sihora (the second one) was the fastest and we choose that route.

The Journey.

Starting at around 0715 in the morning, we left behind Jabalpur city through NH 30 and soon switched to SH 49. The roads in Madhya Pradesh are so amazing that it was hardly noticeable that we are not on an NH but on an SH. We continued our journey on SH 49 and around 1200 we reached NH 39. Soon we crossed Panna bypass and were traversing through the area of Panna Tiger Reserve.

Forested Area of Panna Reserve

Two-lane NH as it passes through Panna Tiger Reserve

Panna Tiger Reserve.

This Tiger reserve had fallen off the Wildlife enthusiasts' radar some years ago as the tiger population had almost vanished due to poaching, etc. However, there is wonderful news on the Tiger Conservation front from Panna. The programme of resettling tigers is bearing fruits and as of date, there are now 64 tigers, tigresses, and cubs in Panna Tiger Reserve.

The road, despite being an  NH narrowed down a bit in the tiger reserve area for obvious reason (scope does exist to follow Pench model to widen the road, where an elevated 4 lane road has been constructed through Pench Tiger reserve with 4 underpasses for wildlife exist to transit across the highway without any disturbance or accidents. Once the road crossing along the Core zone was over, it widened to 4 lanes. 

Pandav Falls and Caves.

We had estimated that we should reach Khajuraho by 1300 and were merrily enjoying the drive and suddenly our driver asked us, "Would you like to visit Pandav Gupha (Cave) and Pandav Waterfall?". We were wary of losing time in Khajuraho but relented and said Yes. Good that we did so. 

Taking a small detour we entered the buffer zone of Panna Reserve and drove for a short time to reach the parking area. It was a downhill walk of about 10 minutes from this parking area to reach Pandav Gupha and Fall. Taking a guide authorised by the forest department is mandatory for two reasons. One without a guide one won't know much about the place and the second and most important reason is the safety of visitors. Since this place borders the core zone of Panna Tiger Reserve, there have been occasions that tiger(s) have landed up there. It is the job of the guide to bring visitors to safety if there the Tiger call from the jungle.

Five Pandavs and Draupadi have said to have spent some time here during their Agyatvass (Exile). Later on, this place was used by the Panna kings as their hunting lodge. It is a quiet and beautiful place. The fall was only a narrow stream falling in the pond below but it must have been a roaring fall during Monsoon. This fall is on Parvati river, a tributary of Ken river. 

Receptionist at Pandav Falls

What remains of Pandav Fall which is a mighty fall in Monsoon

A Drongo on the Watch

Pandav Gupha

Another Look

Pandav Gupha. Pandav Kund in the foreground

Housekeeping Staff at Pandav Gupha😃

Scratch Marks. Not by Tigers of Panna Reserve
but by Bears climbing the trees to steal Honey

There is a connection this place has with the independence struggle of India, Great Chandrashekhar Azad had conducted a meeting of local revolutionaries in Pandav Gupha during his armed struggle days against the British.

We spent about 30 minutes at Pandav Gupha and Falls. It was a place that got recommended to us out of the blue. We had no clue about this place and were happy that we agreed to our driver's suggestion else this place would have been missed. 

Khajuraho, Lunch Option.

After this visit, we set out again to Khajuraho, reaching there by 1430. The first thing we did at Khajuraho was "Pet Puja" aka Lunch. We went to Badri Seth Marwari Bhoj for Lunch. This is a pure veg restaurant, seems very popular and serves a great Rajasthani Thali though a la Carte is also available. This place is highly recommended for a visit. Since we ordered Thali meal, Lunch got done very fast.

Kutni Island Resort.

We proceeded to our place of Stay, Kutni Island Resort by MP Tourism which is about 17 km from Khajuraho post-lunch. This resort which opened in January 2021, is situated barely 75 to 100 meters from the land on an island created due to Lake of Kutni Dam. The Dam is close by. This place is small. Just 10 AC Rooms and a functional restaurant. Rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated.

There is a beautiful lawn, a nice garden, a backdrop of Kutni Lake and there is also a boating facility which is utilized by house guests and tourists (who pay an entry fee). Built in the old Rajasthani palace style. It is a very good place. The restaurant too is good.

Rooms and Lawns at Kutni Island Resort

Approach Bridge to Kutni Resort

On the way to Boating Station

A glimpse, of Khajuraho.

We returned to Khajuraho around 1630 to visit temples and attend the Light and Sound Show at Western Group of Temples. Khajuraho has temples that get roughly clubbed into Western Group of Temples, Eastern Group of Temples and Southern Group of Temple. The prominent and most visited temples are in the Western group where the Light and Sound Show also happens. The temples in other groups are also worth a visit.

Our focus today, for the balance of our time was to see temples of the Eastern group, The first temple (and as it turned out, the only temple of this group that we could see) we choose was the Vamana Temple, the temple of Lord Vishnu in his Midget avatar. It is a beautiful temple. 

Vamana Temple

Intricate Carving

Mandap

Eye Catching Visuals

Vamana, the Lighting of the photo is bad

Another View

One More

We went in and started enjoying its beauty and then the Guard came and told us that there is only 10 minutes left for us to see the temple as it closes at Sunset, the sunset in December in Khajuraho is around 1730. We did not know that. Anyway, we wound up our visit fast. 

By the time we left the Vamana Temple complex and reached the Western Group of temples, it was dark but the Sound and Light show was to start at 1830. we waited around that complex, bought our tickets, had our evening tea, etc, and then went and saw the Light and Sound Show.

The show is good but having seen many L&S shows, we did not find the show at Khajuraho great.

The actual trip of Khajuraho would happen tomorrow.

Day Trip from Jabalpur, 64 Yogini Mandir and Bhedaghat Marble Rocks

 All of us have seen the Indian Parliament at least in photographs and generally, everyone is impressed with its round orientation and style. How many of us know that the design adopted by Lutyens is not original, it's rather an adopted one. This design is inspired by 64 Yogini Temples, which are mostly circular to represent Chakras in the human body, One such mandir is closer to Jabalpur.  64 Yogini Mandir and Bhedaghat Marble Rocks (boating) is the second location for a day trip from Jabalpur.

64 Yogini Mandir

Bhagat is about 20 km from Jabalpur city. 64 Yogani Mandir is located on a hillock in the Bhedaghat area on the main road leading to Dhuadhar falls, about 500 meters from the boating point. This 11th-century temple is clearly marked and one can not miss it. The temple is (like most 64 yogini temples in North India) is located on a hillock. There are about 150 plus steps to reach the temple. Once on the top of this hill, the ground is plain. The first sight that we get to see is a circular wall with an entrance.

Sign Board on the Main Road

Information Board

Staircase Leading to the Temple

Once we step in after removing our shoes. we are inside the 64 Yogini mandir. 64 yoginis and some more deities are housed in enclosures along the circular walls along the periphery. Some yoginis have their names inscribed below their statues. Some yoginis have not been identified. All these statues are in different stages of destruction. some are reasonably intact, some have their hands damaged and some others have their heads missing. Not sure if this is a result of neglect or the handiwork of Muslim invaders. However, whichever state the statutes are. they are beautiful and worth a definite look. 

Outer side and entrance, the circularity is evident

One of the Yogini Statue

Yogini Mandir Video

Apart from 64 yoginis and other deities that are situated in the circular shaped housings (which originally did not have a roof on the top), there is a beautiful Shiva temple called Gauri Shankar Temple Situated a little off-centre. It has beautiful Murtis of Gauri Shankar (Lord Shiva and Devi Parvati riding Nandi, the Bull. There are other deities too in the "Garbha Graha".

Gauri Shankar Temple

Another View

There are huge bells outside the temple as also a Shivalinga and another shivalinga with four faces (like Pashupatinath mandir). This temple is also as ancient as the 64 Yoginis. This whole complex is a delightful place. It is also a Photographer's Paradise.

4 faced Shivling 

Another one

This temple, dedicated to 64 Yoganis, mythological powers of Tantra traditions, is worth spending an hour or two of your time before you embark on a boat ride in the Narmada River to see the world-famous Marble rocks of Bhedaghat.

Bhedghat Marble Rocks

Three places are famous in the Bhedaghat area, Dhuadhar Falls, 64 Yogini Temple and Marble Rocks. On this trip, we gave a miss to Dhuadhar Falls. We visited 64 Yogini Temple and thereafter we came to the Ghat on Narmada River for boating in the river through Marble Rocks, a deep gorge in the path of the Narmada river.

Marble Rocks are predominantly white marble rich in Magnesium. This marble thus has Soap Stone hardness. This makes this Marble easy to carve leading to many craft shops selling the artefacts made of this Marble. 

Once on the ghat, different types of boats are available to take a ride. The boats are 5 to 6 person type and 10 to 12 type for group hire and (I think) 25 person type for individual ticket basis. We took a 5 person boat for Rs 800. The rates are fixed by the MP Govt, clearly displayed and the booking counter also is run by MP Govt, Dept of Tourism. That means there is no chance of cheating or bargain. the boats are rowboats, rowed by the boatmen. This ride lasts about 30 minutes, the outward trip is upstream against the current of water and the boats go up to a basin kind of place where they can turn back.

View from Ghat

Our Boating Starts, first look at Marble Rock

Peaceful

Now the fun starts

Narrow Marble Gorge

Another Look

Rowing is a tough profession

There is a place in this Gorge called "Bandar Kuni". It is said that many years ago when this gorge was narrower, Monkeys used to jump from one shore to another shore, hence the name. Boats used to go up to Bandar Kudni a few years ago but they now do not go that far. This place has mostly white marble but few places one can see Blue and Brown marble also.

These days Bhedaghat has good safety rules. Boats are regulated well, so no overcrowding. Wearing of Life Jackets is mandatory for passengers and it is enforced very strictly.

As the boat ride progresses, the boatman gives a commentary about the marble rocks, also about various films that were shot in the gorge, etc in a flowing and funny manner. The ride is enjoyable as we get to see the natural wonder the rocks are (and they exhibit different moods based on light conditions and they look the best on a Full Moon Night) and the commentary adds humour to the boat ride.

There are stalls on the ghat to have tea and snacks after the boat ride. If you are there in the evening, you can attend Aarti of Maa Narmada. This is also one of the places to buy small gifts to take back home.

Bhedaghat is a good place to visit and along with 64 Yogini Mandir and Dhuadhar, it makes a great day trip.

Day Trip from Jabalpur - Rani Durgavati Samadhi and Bargi Dam

Rani Durgavati Samadhi Sthal

 Rani Durgavati, a Chandela Rajput princess, was married to Gadha Mandala king Dalpat Shah of Gondwana, the present-day Jabalpur region in 1942. After the death of her husband, she took the reins of the kingdom in 1750 AD. Her able rule made the state very prosperous. 

Under the expansionist policies of Akbar, his army had deposed Baz Bahadur, ruler of Malwa (Capital Mandav Garh). That made Rani Durgavati's state share a border with the Mughals. Getting lured by the prosperity of her kingdom, Akbar's general Kwaja Abdul Majid attacked her kingdom. in 1564.

Statue of Rani Durgavati

Rani Durgavati choose to defend her freedom with her small untrained and poorly armed army against a well trained, better armed and superior in number Mughal army as she felt, against the advice of her prime minister, that an honourable death is better than a disgraceful life.

She took her defensive stand against the Mughal army at Narrai Nallah, in the hilly region near Jabalpur between Narmada and Gaur. Her son Vir Narayan led the attack on Mughal Army and defeated them three times. In the battle the next day when Mughals called in their heavy guns, the battle tilted to Mughal's side. Vir Narayan got injured. Rani Durgavati also was badly injured by two arrows including one in her neck.

Rani Durgavati Samadhi. See the Copper Plate depicting her

Sensing a sure defeat and chance of the enemy capturing her, she chooses to kill herself with her dagger rather than get captured by the enemy. Her martyrdom day 24 Jun (1564) is celebrated in this region as "Balidan Diwas".

The History

Every nation loving and freedom-loving Indian should make it a point to visit her samadhi and offer her his/her respect.

Bargi Dam

Narmada (Ji) is one of the only two major rivers flowing from east to west, the other being Tapti. Rest all the major Indian rivers flow eastwards. Narmada river has a total of 30 dams irrigating and supplying drinking water to many areas of Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat. It is also called the Lifeline of these two states.

Bargi dam, constructed in 1988 is the first among the 30 dams of Narmada. Situated some 40 km south of Jabalpur, this dam is about 70 meters high and has over 5 km in length. Its huge reservoir covers an area of 75 km by 5 km spreading across some of the areas of 3 the districts of Madhya Pradesh.

Bargi Dam, view from downstream

Bargi Dam, view from the Lake Side

Bargi Dam is a day trip attraction for the people of Jabalpur and also the tourist visiting Jabalpur. MP Tourism Corporation has developed an accommodation facility, a restaurant and also boating at Bargi Dam. The MPT hotel here is a compact one with just 6 rooms overlooking the lake and the dam. However, considering the day visitors, the restaurant is much bigger and can cater for a large number of visitors.

Bargi Dam MPT Hotel and Tourist Complex, seen from the lake

Among the boating facility, there are cruise boats, speed boats and paddle boats. Cruising in the lake which is a trip of over 30 min is great fun. The whole experience is a lovely family outing.

One of the islands in the lake

Let me catch a fish

I need to digest it

Sometimes its nice to be ahead of the camera

In conclusion, this trip to Rani Durgavati Samadhi and Bargi Dam is a worthwhile day trip from Jabalpur.

Majestic Tigers of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh - Day III - Appointment with Tiger(s)

Day 3 - Final day - 01 June 2017

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This was our day of taking a morning safari trip to best of 3 regions of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, the Tala region. The anticipation was written large on our faces (obviously of sightseeing Tigers) when we got up at 0420 to board safari gypsy which was to come at 0500 hrs.

Early Morning at Mogali Resort

Mogali's Jungle

The resort had provided us a cup of tea at 0445 as committed to us the previous day. As we had our tea the gypsy was there, dot on time. Since we were already ready with our cameras and binoculars, we boarded the vehicle and started for Tala gate.

Waiting in Anticipation  Tala gate

After verification of identity (by examination of Aadhar card) we waited for the gate to open. Gate opened at 0600 and we were in to a lush green beautiful forest bathing in soft morning Sundays and morning light chill. Chirping of birds all over the forest was a bonus.

Where are the Fish

What Colours?

Perfect Stillness

Two are a company

Keeping an Eye

Snow Capped Mountains at Tala? Just some clouds

As the vehicle progressed the lush green landscape gave way to hilly terrain and back to lush green plains. There was lot of bird activity but being early morning and lush green trees with thick canopy reduced the chance of sighting them.

I am Around - A Pug Mark

I am so Happy

How do I Look

In the mean time the driver got news of Tiger cub sighting at some place. Our gypsies immediately changed directions towards that area. Going there, it was a “wait n watch” time for us. There was a trainee elephant tracking that cub and we were tracking the elephant.

During waiting for the Cub we also found a Hornbill (hope I identified it correctly) sitting atop a leaf less tree. That got photographed to best of our ability in wildlife photography.

Under trainee Elephant

An Eagle

Meditation

Should I fly away

Still Thinking

Horn Bill

Run, they are coming

Hush, Finally crossed safely

After a prolonged wait some of us saw motion of that cub at a long distance but that was all we could see. This was supposed to be a cub from a group of 3 young cubs of 12 month age and tigress mom.

Getting tired of the wait we decided to go to “central point”, a real central point to all four routes (each safari vehicle is allotted a specific route in the forest out of four routes, A, B, C and D). Another important point is, this is the only place where one can get down from the safari vehicle, go to toilet (both ladies and gents toilets are available) and have a cup of tea or have some thing to eat.

Don't have Any Doubts

Even before we are done with our cup of tea our driver got to know of sighting of another group of a tigress and her three cubs (about two years old but still dependent on their mom) in a place called Andhiyari Ziriya (a spring of that name). Some photos taken enroute are posted below.

View from the Center Point

A Beauty - Name unknown to me

That made us gulp our time and quickly mount the vehicle and rush. The driver and guide got busy looking for tigers. The warning calls of the monkeys were getting louder. After some time they sighted another elephant with some people on the back (how does one get this elephant ride at Bandhavgarh is a mystery to me despite many inquiries). And as they watched the elephant (who was possibly tracking the tiger) a tiger was also noticed moving towards the road where our Gypsies were standing.

Arrived

Her Majesty 

Magnificent 

Wow

What a view that was. The majestic Tiger (actually a tigress as we were to realize later) kept walking in proud steps and nonchalantly crossed the road right next to our vehicles and soon vanished in the jungle.

Our guide was very experienced one (as stated by our driver) who soon realised that this tiger will have to reappear around Andhiyari Ziria area. He guided the driver to that area.

At Andhiyari Ziria we were not alone. There were about six to seven gypsies who arrived almost with us (and we were told some impatient visitors saw the single cub and left the forest to return to their hotels, just few gypsies was a possible confirmation). Then the wait started.

The Omni present big elephant was seen in the area (how easy it was to sight Tigers atop an elephant, I wish I had one) but the wait was still on. We were rewarded for the wait. There was a tiger (rather tigress) walking through the Nullah that flew from the mountain to plain and passed through this point. The tigress was moving from downstream to upstream towards mountains taking her time and resting in the Nullah water to cool herself. We waited with breath held for her to progress towards us and then on to hills.

  

Here comes the  Queen of the Jungle

Walking on

Waiting for Some One?

We did not know then what lucky we had turned out to be until we saw another tiger (her cub number 1) following her. Then came the second cub and the third. We could not believe that we are seeing not one, not two but four Tigers walking in the Nullah as if attending a parade walking one after the other in a straight line.

Bonus Three

Wait, Where are you going?

Perfect Synch

Where is our Mom

What a magnificent sight it was. They paused in the Nullah for a while, rested on the ground for a while and continuing their journey towards the hills in a seniority order with their mom in the lead.

Let me Sit and Think

Its Too Hot in Tala

Slowly, steadily and majestically they walked over the ground parallel to Nullah (as our gypsies were on the bridge on the Nullah) to there destination, each one crossing the road behind our vehicle. A sight to behold and cherish for days to come. In all the sighing was for about 30 minutes of visual treat.

Leading the Pack

Time to March

Boys, Lets Go

Let Me follow my Mom

Tired of Bathing 

Commanding Steps

I don't bother about you all

Marcthing on to My Den

Bidding good bye to the tigress and her 3 cubs we reluctantly turned our vehicle out of that area. It was already about 1000 hrs. Crossing the territory of the forest, watching few more birds, spotted deers, Sambhar, Monkeys and wild boar we returned to the main gate at about 1045. It was a very enjoyable trip to Tala range of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve with a absolutely huge bonus of sighting four grand Royal Bengal Tigers.

It was then a return to Mogali Jungle Resort, lunch and the return trip to Jabalpur. This trip took us four hours including a stop over.

In the end of this narrative which I enjoyed putting together I can only say “guys and girls, just come out of your comfort zone and go and meet the Kings (and Queens) of the Jungle at Bandhavgarh. Only advice is, get online safari booking at forest@mponline and then tailor your plan of travel accordingly. Else you will have to endure a few hour's hardship पर safari for current booking as I did endure.

Lastly, there was a board at the exit of the range which said’ “Perhaps you may noy have seen me but please don't be disappointed, I have seen you” (see photo below). There lies the key to happiness when one visits the tiger reserve at Bandhavgarh or elsewhere. Happy Safaris.

PS - Some answers to questions one would like to ask.

Best time to visit a Tiger Reserve - from April to Start of the Monsoon when water shortage in the deep forest brings out all animals into open at few water points in the forest.

Among Pench, Kamha and bandhavgarh (My ratings)

Beauty  in descending order - Kanhs, Bandhavgarh, Pench
Chance of Tiger sighting  in Descending Order - Bandhavgarh (highest per capita tigers by area), Pench, Kanha (Ever green forest)