Our own Belur/Halebidu, Miniature one, just 50 km from Pune.

 Chennakeshava temple at Belur and Hoysaleshwara Temple at Halebidu (both in Karnataka are world-famous temples built in around 1200 AD. Their fame comes from intricate carvings found on the inside and outside walls of these temples. Belur is about 750 km from Pune.

But to see the beautiful carvings shown below, one need not go that far, we have our own mini Belur and Halebidu, which is about 400 years older than both these temples. We need to travel just about 50  kilometers from Pune. Let us watch the photos first -

Kaurav Pandav War (Mahabharata(

Another Angle

Draupadi Swyamwar (Arjuna taking aim at the Fish target)

Dwarpal on the Stairs

A Beautiful Statue

These and some more carvings are present in this temple. As you reach closer to this temple situated on a hill fort (now in ruins), you get to see these three Shikhar.

First View of Gopur

Once you park your car and climb about 15 odd stairs, you reach an elevated platform where you see the exterior of the temple complex (the temple lies in this outer shell.

Entrance to the Temple Complex

Carving on the roof boundary

From the main gate seen in the photo above, one enters the temple complex and then one has to take a narrow flight of stairs to reach the main temple where a great Black Stone Nandi, the Bull of Lord Shiva.

Nandi with his eternal wait for Shiva

Another View

And finally, in the Garbha Gruha (sanctum Sanctorum) we get the darshans of the presiding deity, Bhuleshwar, the Shiva. See the beautiful image below -

Morning Darshans of Shri Bhuleshwar

After Darshans, one can enjoy the rustic Misal Pao or Wada Pao in one or two clean and simple hotels at the foothill of Mangal Gad.

A trip to Shri Bhuleshwar Mahadev Temple at Mangal Gad, about 60 km from Swar gate is a great trip which can be done in half a day or it can be clubbed with other attractions like Bhigwan on one side and Narayanpur Datta and Narayaneshwar temple and Prati Balaji Temple on the other side to convert to a day trip.

If enjoying a drive, enjoying a trip, seeing something spectacular, and sampling rustic Marathi food is the objective, go to Shri Bhuleshwar Remple

Day Trip from Jabalpur, 64 Yogini Mandir and Bhedaghat Marble Rocks

 All of us have seen the Indian Parliament at least in photographs and generally, everyone is impressed with its round orientation and style. How many of us know that the design adopted by Lutyens is not original, it's rather an adopted one. This design is inspired by 64 Yogini Temples, which are mostly circular to represent Chakras in the human body, One such mandir is closer to Jabalpur.  64 Yogini Mandir and Bhedaghat Marble Rocks (boating) is the second location for a day trip from Jabalpur.

64 Yogini Mandir

Bhagat is about 20 km from Jabalpur city. 64 Yogani Mandir is located on a hillock in the Bhedaghat area on the main road leading to Dhuadhar falls, about 500 meters from the boating point. This 11th-century temple is clearly marked and one can not miss it. The temple is (like most 64 yogini temples in North India) is located on a hillock. There are about 150 plus steps to reach the temple. Once on the top of this hill, the ground is plain. The first sight that we get to see is a circular wall with an entrance.

Sign Board on the Main Road

Information Board

Staircase Leading to the Temple

Once we step in after removing our shoes. we are inside the 64 Yogini mandir. 64 yoginis and some more deities are housed in enclosures along the circular walls along the periphery. Some yoginis have their names inscribed below their statues. Some yoginis have not been identified. All these statues are in different stages of destruction. some are reasonably intact, some have their hands damaged and some others have their heads missing. Not sure if this is a result of neglect or the handiwork of Muslim invaders. However, whichever state the statutes are. they are beautiful and worth a definite look. 

Outer side and entrance, the circularity is evident

One of the Yogini Statue

Yogini Mandir Video

Apart from 64 yoginis and other deities that are situated in the circular shaped housings (which originally did not have a roof on the top), there is a beautiful Shiva temple called Gauri Shankar Temple Situated a little off-centre. It has beautiful Murtis of Gauri Shankar (Lord Shiva and Devi Parvati riding Nandi, the Bull. There are other deities too in the "Garbha Graha".

Gauri Shankar Temple

Another View

There are huge bells outside the temple as also a Shivalinga and another shivalinga with four faces (like Pashupatinath mandir). This temple is also as ancient as the 64 Yoginis. This whole complex is a delightful place. It is also a Photographer's Paradise.

4 faced Shivling 

Another one

This temple, dedicated to 64 Yoganis, mythological powers of Tantra traditions, is worth spending an hour or two of your time before you embark on a boat ride in the Narmada River to see the world-famous Marble rocks of Bhedaghat.

Bhedghat Marble Rocks

Three places are famous in the Bhedaghat area, Dhuadhar Falls, 64 Yogini Temple and Marble Rocks. On this trip, we gave a miss to Dhuadhar Falls. We visited 64 Yogini Temple and thereafter we came to the Ghat on Narmada River for boating in the river through Marble Rocks, a deep gorge in the path of the Narmada river.

Marble Rocks are predominantly white marble rich in Magnesium. This marble thus has Soap Stone hardness. This makes this Marble easy to carve leading to many craft shops selling the artefacts made of this Marble. 

Once on the ghat, different types of boats are available to take a ride. The boats are 5 to 6 person type and 10 to 12 type for group hire and (I think) 25 person type for individual ticket basis. We took a 5 person boat for Rs 800. The rates are fixed by the MP Govt, clearly displayed and the booking counter also is run by MP Govt, Dept of Tourism. That means there is no chance of cheating or bargain. the boats are rowboats, rowed by the boatmen. This ride lasts about 30 minutes, the outward trip is upstream against the current of water and the boats go up to a basin kind of place where they can turn back.

View from Ghat

Our Boating Starts, first look at Marble Rock

Peaceful

Now the fun starts

Narrow Marble Gorge

Another Look

Rowing is a tough profession

There is a place in this Gorge called "Bandar Kuni". It is said that many years ago when this gorge was narrower, Monkeys used to jump from one shore to another shore, hence the name. Boats used to go up to Bandar Kudni a few years ago but they now do not go that far. This place has mostly white marble but few places one can see Blue and Brown marble also.

These days Bhedaghat has good safety rules. Boats are regulated well, so no overcrowding. Wearing of Life Jackets is mandatory for passengers and it is enforced very strictly.

As the boat ride progresses, the boatman gives a commentary about the marble rocks, also about various films that were shot in the gorge, etc in a flowing and funny manner. The ride is enjoyable as we get to see the natural wonder the rocks are (and they exhibit different moods based on light conditions and they look the best on a Full Moon Night) and the commentary adds humour to the boat ride.

There are stalls on the ghat to have tea and snacks after the boat ride. If you are there in the evening, you can attend Aarti of Maa Narmada. This is also one of the places to buy small gifts to take back home.

Bhedaghat is a good place to visit and along with 64 Yogini Mandir and Dhuadhar, it makes a great day trip.

A lovely Day Road Trip from Pune - Weekend ideas

A Great Road Trip from Pune - by Car

Dear Pune People, discerning travellers are always on the lookout for good trips including day trip. In this blogpost of mine, I will tell you about a wonderful day trip from Pune. This trip is about 140 km total from almost anywhere in Pune. 

What to Look for? 

This trip takes you to a rustic village-like environment where you can enjoy buying fresh fruits and Agriculture produce from roadside farmers and vendor. That is besides visiting four beautiful temples.

The Route.

This is a road trip hence one would need a car or a cab. The route will be from Pune to Prati Balaji temple at Ketkawale (in fact the route will take you to this place via the other two stops mentioned later, but going to Prati Balaji directly is a suggestion to optimise the time) and on your return trip, you will make stops at Narayanpur and Bhivari which are the other two places to visit. 

The route map looks something like this. For your destination, search Prati Balaji Temple at Ketkawwle on Kapurhol - Narayanpur road and then add Narayan Pur and Kanifnath Temple as the next stops. Roads are generally OK on this route. 

Your trip starts by taking Pune – Bopdev - Saswad Road. One passes through the Bopdev Ghat and Bhiwari till Amboli where one has to take a turn to Narayanpur (Right turn is taken, the straight one goes to Saswad). 

From Narayanpur you take Saswad - Kapoorhol - Bhor Road. On This road, at Ketkavale one has to take a left turn to reach the parking of Prati Balaji temple. The return route is just a reverse of the route taken from Pune to Prati Balaji. After the visit to Prati Balaji is over, head back to Narayanpur, which is the next stop. Once done with the Narayanpur visit, return on Sasvad – Bopdev – Pune route and go up to Bhivari, where a right turn will lead to the final destination. Kanifnath Samadhi. 

Ok, that was so much so about the road travel part. 

What to see in these places?

1. Prati Balaji at Ketkavale.

 A temple modelled, designed and constructed on the lines of Tirupati Balaji temple, the place acts and behaves like Tirupati. There is a queue for darshan, the Murti is the same as Tirupati, the ambience is also the same, in fact, Prasada(m) laddu also is supposed to be the same (but presently discontinued due to COVID).

Elderly people can skip the line and one member of the family can take them directly to the main gate for Darshan. The ambience is good and the darshans are great. This temple does not allow children below 10 and elderly as per current COVID guidelines in place. 

The car park is about 150 to 200 meter away from the temple. Chapples need to be deposited at “Chapple Ghar” and mobiles and Camera at “Mobile Ghar”. Toilets are available between the parking and “chappal ghar”.

Once one is done with darshan, if tea, etc are needed, there is a small canteen next to “Chappal Ghar” as also one or two restaurants at the car park. There are also some fruit and local produce vendors at the car park. One can buy a few things to eat till you reach Narayanpur where another set of vendors awaits you. Here are few snaps of Prati Balaji. 

 There is a roadside stall of grains and rice between Narayanpur and Ketkawale (Prati Balaji) where many things like Jowar, Ragi, Indrayani rice, etc can be bought. Also around this section, an upmarket(relative to all other eating places in this region) restaurant has just opened (was to open one day after our trip), in case some food replenishment is needed. 

Venkateshwara Temple Premise

Gopuram

2. Narayaneshwar and Ekmukhi Datta Mandir at Narayanpur, 

Narayanpur is situated at the base of the famous Purandhar Fort. In the present day, Narayanpur is known for Ekmukhi Datta Mandir,   However, Narayanpur had been famous from historical times as a place where an ancient Shiva temple exists, called Narayaneshwar Mandir. Some say this temple belongs to the “Yadav” period and the board there at Narayanpur reads “Pandavkalin Narayaneshwar Temple”. The period notwithstanding, this temple is sheer beauty in stone, though not as grand as the Chinnakeshava temple at Belur in Karnataka, that notwithstanding, it is beautiful and grand. 

Narayaneshwar Mandir

Closer View

Side

Garbha Gruh

Bahind the Shanar Syambhu Pind

Ganesh Murti

Another Ganesh Carved at the Back of the temple

View from the Rear  - Majestic

 Ek Mukhi Datta Mandir has been established by Sadguru Narayan Maharaj. The Murti of Shri Dattarya is Ek Mukhi, unlike other places where the Murti is always Trimukhi. This Ekmukhi Pritima is supposed to represent Lord Vishnu’s features. It’s a good temple to visit. The temple ceiling walls have frames depicting Stories from Guru Chatra and one more Granth (name of which I can’t recollect). 

Entrance to Data Mandir

There is also a display giving information about Char (4) Dattadhams established by Sadguru Narayan Maharaj across India. 

There is a Naturopathy clinic run by Sadguru Narayan Maharaj’s organisation at Narayanpur. Those interested may seek more information about this at the temple. 

 Shri Kshetra Narayanpur is the place to visit both these temples as also to soak in a rustic village type environment. There are local hotels and I am sure one gets all that is famous in this belt, Vada Pao, Misal, etc. Also, the fruit vendors are there for you to buy fresh fruits grown in this area. 

Parking can be done on the roadside if the place is not crowded. Actual designated parking is behind the Datta temple. Somewhere there, there is a toilet complex also.

3.  Shri Kanifnath samadhi at Bhivari. 

While Prati Balaji and both the temples at Narayanpur are almost on the main road, to go to Kanifnath Samadhi and Temple on a hillock called Kanifnath Gad, one has to take a short few kilometre detour from Bhivari, on Saswad – Bopdev – Pune road. After a short drive one reaches Shri Kanifnath Samadhi. For those who may not be aware, Shri Kanifnath is one of the Navnath (one among the nine successive heads of Nath or Bairagi sampradaya). 

If you park at first parking, some steps need to be climbed, However, if skip the parking and drive up the hill for a few more meters, you reach another parking just behind the temple. The climb to the temple from here is very small. If you have the elderly or those who have difficulty climbing, parking at the back of the temple is a better option. 

Kanifnath Mandir

Samadhi Mandir. The Board notwithstanding, Photography was not objected to

Story of the birth of Shri Kanifnath

A decorated Tulsi Vrindavan

Pune as seen from Shri Kanifnath gad - a lot of haze though

The place is clean, nicely made and the hill is a great place to watch the sunset and have a birds-eye view of Pune. Enjoy your time there. Once the visit is done, when one is back to the main road junction,  buy local produce in a small market that exists at the junction, have Sugarcane juice, etc, and then it’s a drive back to your place after an enjoyable and well-spent day. 

When this trip is undertaken by some of you, you would come across many fun things that we did not notice. Do add information about them in the comments section of this blog post.