Nairobi, A City with its own share of Wild life

Kenya Trip Day 7 and the Final Day

Our final day at Kenya was meant for visiting Nairobi, the capital of Kenya. We had our plans to visit Giraffe Centre, David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage and Bommas of Kenya Dance Show.

Since this day no safari was involved we were at Peace. There was no need to start early (and thus no need to get up early) and that gave us time for a peaceful breakfast. In any case, we were in a B & B and the breakfast was to be made by us (self-help). After a grand breakfast of eggs and bread, we set out at about 0900 to go to Giraffe Centre.

 It is Situated at Langata Suburb, about 14 km from where we lived. We were at the Giraffe Centre by 0930. This place is managed by The Africa Fund for Endangered Wildlife (AFEW). The Giraffe Centre is on an important mission of protecting and breeding the endangered Rothschild Giraffe who have lost their natural habitat to human greed (sometimes also called development).

This place is on the fringe of Nairobi National Park (this city boasts of a national park within its boundary. Only another place I know which has a National Park within its boundary is Mumbai, which has Sanjay Gandhi National Park), it is very much a forest where once in the past Giraffes were attacked by a Lion of National Park. See the photos below.

Giraffe Home

This being conservation centre for Giraffes. they live in their natural habitat. We, humans, get a very small area of maybe 100 m by 100 m for everything, that is, restaurant, gift shop, restrooms and the most important, a small area which interfaces us with giraffes. One such place is a small boundary wall. Here, the centre volunteers give a chalk shapes stick pieces, made of some combination of Giraffe food, to visitors. These sticks are fed to the Giraffes across this boundary. See the photos below. You can go as close as it gets. 

So cute

The giraffe can actually kiss you in very skillfully taking that bite which you were holding between your lips. Don't believe me? Here is the Giraffe Kissing me.

Kiss on Demand

They are very friendly as long as you are feeding them. Most Giraffes have a good temperament but one odd (and the volunteers know which one) has a mercurial temper and can headbutt you if you keep the feed your hand but do not give it to him (or maybe her).

As long as you feed me, I am a friend

Right next to this place seen above is a two-story hut like round structure where there is a balcony running on all sides on the first floor. You also can romance with Giraffes in that part of the balcony which adjoins the forest. I think it is more convenient for Giraffes to interact with us at that level as they don't have to bend.

Now we are on the same plane

While we were in this balcony, all the Giraffes left and went into the forest (there was some truck that came to discharge some cargo in this forest and the Giraffes got alarmed). Moment Giraffes left, Pumbas (Wild Boers) chanced on the Giraffe food that was laying on the ground and had a feast of it.

Lead me too the food

Ringa Ringa Roses

I found it, I found it

An important place in this hut-like structure is a small demonstration hall on the first floor where one of the volunteers gives you detailed information about Giraffes in general and Rosthchild Giraffe in particular. Do not miss that short lecture. It is worth listening to.

After a delightful and educative visit, we drove to David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage. We were enjoying the company of Giraffes but the issue was, David Sheldrick is open for public only between 1100 to 1200 hrs.

This place is a real life saver for elephant calves separated from their mother's death of the mother or mother has been killed by poachers or some other reason. It is important to understand that they need their mother to nurture them till the age of at least two years. It is said that the elephant calf is destined to die if the mother is not there and he is not rescued. 

Once they get information about such claves they rescue them, nurture them for sufficient time (till they are self-sufficient, I think till about the age of 7 years) and then rehabilitate them with the wild herds of elephants in one of the many National Forests in Kenya. A commendable task. 

At David Sheldrick, they get two sets of calves, the young ones and the older ones, to come to an arena having a water pond, mud, loose soil and the attendants to look after them. Once they are there, its just sheer fun to watch them enjoy themselves. 

Here We Come

No Work Without Pay (oops, I mean Milk)

What a Marching Formation! Are they Military Elephants!

There is no better Fun then to Play in the Mud

Get Out, It's our turn now

Community Frolicking 

I love this Coolness

Get Up, We need to move out

While Others Play, Let me Eat

Wrestellers

Pumba is here also to have fun

Pumbs has the Mud Pool to Himself

Bura Na Mano Holi Hai (Lets SPray each other, its Holi, Festival of Colours)

After leaving the fun at the Elephant Orphanage, we had our lunch and then went to Kazuri (Meaning Small and Beautiful in the Swahili Language) Beads Factory. Started sometime around 1795 with just two employees in order to provide employment to Single Mothers around Nairobi, this lace now is a mean of livelyhood of about 300 Women.

The visit is a great way to learn about beadmaking (and also pottrery making) from the clay. They conduct you around in small batches and explain the whole process of bead making, starting from clay preparation to bead making, baking colouring the beads and baking them again to give that beautiful shine. One is allowed to take photographs at every stage. 

While I am not including photographs of clay preparation, see the work for yourself in a few photos that I have added.

Making of beads from clay

Making of beads from clay - photo 2

Baking Oven Ready to be Fired

Baked Beads

Painted Beads

Finished Beads

Bead Collection

Small Ornaments

Pottery and Toy Making

Our final destination in the Nairobi city was Bomas of Kenya. Boma in Swahili means a Homestead. It is a cultural centre having Bomas of various tribes of Kenya in its vast premise as also a big circular auditorium. where a daily show of Kenyan Dances is held every day. On working days the show is from 1430 to 1600.

They have a huge circular auditorium where these dances happen on the centre stage. In this short span, which also has an interval in between, they accommodate many traditional dances of myriad tribes of Kenya. Prior to every dance,  an excellent commentary is given which gives out full information about that dance. Its a enjoyable show and gets us some insight into dances of Kenyan tribes. Here are a few videos of some of the dances. Enjoy the rhythm and the energy of these dances. 

Kenya at Its Best - Whole Day Safaris at Masai Mara

Day 4 of our Trip  

(If you like the blog post, kindly place your comments in the comment section of the post. You can also follow the blog to get notification of new posts)

We had reached Mara Sopa Lodge yesterday and enjoyed our evening with Masai Dance. Today was the day of a “whole day Safari” including seeing the famous migration of Wilder Beasts, Zebras and Giraffes (if at all it happens as it entirely depends on the mood of the animals to migrate or not to migrate). The Masai Mara National Park Opens for people at 0630. We had planned to have a quick breakfast and start the safari at 0730.  

Being an ex Fauji (ex Military Man) always helps. I think I can be a Good Tour Manager. Our group was out on the road at 0740. A good time with respect to our schedule. In a short time, we reached the Gate and encountered a first and only problem in the whole trip. The security persons wanted our id document (namely Passport) and we were not carrying them (nor did our guide warn us to carry them). However, the Forest staff let us go after verifying our stay details from Sopa Mara Lodge.

As we moved into the forest, the usual sightings started. The Zebras were there, the Impalas were there and so were Giraffes, etc. Flat grassland made it possible to view these animals from up and close. The morning sun rays made the coat of all the animals shine and they were looking magnificent.

Tomson's Gazal, also feel the flat grassland of Masai Mara (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Wilder Beast (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Lapwing (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Heard of Wilder Beasts (Image - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Zebra in its full glory, Africans call it "Donkey with the Strips" (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Male Impalas, thrown out of the herd by dominant male (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Where is my Food? A Giraffe looking for food (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Ground Hornbill (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

When one is in a National Forest, the aim is to enjoy the nature and the wildlife that is encountered. Every one desires to see the Big Cat (Tigers) in India and Big Five in Africa (out of which Leopard, being a shy animal, is difficult to sight and Lions are few as compared to big herds of animals like Impalas, Zebras) but that desire needs to be curbed else one is left chasing the big cats or big five and miss the pristine forest and grand wildlife in chasing the illusion.

After venturing little more inside we met our first predator (of Masai Mara), a  Cheetah, merrily resting under a tree, oblivious to all the tourist vehicles and camera noise being generated. He looked majestic and cute. See for yourself.

"Parde me Rehene Do" (Let me be behind a curtain), a Cheetah (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Let me Rest, you go your way (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

WHo is There!!!!! (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

As we moved further we met a flock of Ibis, a herd of African Water Buffalo and an antelope family animal called “Topi”, yes you heard it right, Topi.   

African Water Buffalos (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Topi (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Venturing further into Masai Mara Reserve we found something light brown on top of a rock. 

From a distance, they were a small mass  of Brown, this is up and close first image (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

On getting a little closer, we realised we have hit a jackpot, a Pride of Lions were enjoying siesta (maybe, after a great meal). There were about 7 to 8 adult lionesses there, most sleeping and one grand Lioness seemed to be on security duty (difficult for me to shake off my defence background). Our and many other camera shutters started rolling and it felt that we be there for a long time and capture the mood.

Beauty on Duty (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Grand and Proud (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Scanning for Trouble (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Behave yourself Girls (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

A Lion Pride is composed of a Male Lion and many Lionesses and few cubs. We took one round of this rock formation looking for that Big Lion but did not find one. Lions by nature are lazy, we knew (actually, Eric, the Guide knew) that we can safely move out and come back after some time and the Lionesses would still be there and maybe the Lion too will appear. We decided to look for other beauties of the Jungle (other animals).

Common Drongo (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Lo and behold, soon we found a herd of Elephants. Actually, we found a small elephant first and soon realised that there is a full herd of them.

Cute Baby (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

I have grown  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

In Pursuit of Something  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Feeling Hungry, Let me eat something  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

When we returned to that rock, we found the Lionesses very much there and soon we also found the Lion of the pride with a cub trying to play with him. That cub was promptly scolded by the Lion.

I am the King  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

It's Too Hot

 Poor cubs made an innocent face and sat, see how innocent they look.

I did not do anything

After some modelling for photos, the Lion got up. Walked on top of the rock and drank some water and went to another place to rest. It is impossible to get a resting Lion moving. He is King of the Jungle and a king moves only when he wants (in this case that desire comes only when he is hungry).

Too many people, let me find a new place

Wow, What a Refreshing Drink

Grand and Majestic 

One interesting fact is, all safari vehicles have wireless sets installed and they exchange the sighting information. We also received input about sighting a Leopard on a tree. The place was far. A drive of over 40 minutes took us there. The Leopard was there, sitting on a tree branch but his face was on the other side. It was not possible to go on the other side of that tree. All we got was side view (minus his face and head) but none the less, a Leopard, very shy and difficult to sight animal was sighted by us (those who reached after half an hour could see Leopard walking away).

Get me if you can

We moved on from there and continued meeting some more animals. 

After some time we decided to have our Picnic basket (packed lunch is called Picnic basket by hotels and resorts). As we were sitting down for our lunch under an umbrella Acacia tree Eric got the news of possible migration. We rushed to the spot and waited for a long time (while having our lunch in our safari car).

There were many wilder beast and zebras gathered on both side of the river and they did inch towards the river but their mood possibly changed and they moved away from the banks of Mara. Few Crocodiles missed their Lunch and we missed sighting the famous migration. 

It must be understood that they migrate across the Mara river (animals do not have a notion of a boundary between nations like we have) and surprisingly migration happens from both banks across the river to the other bank, they may be thinking that the grass on the other side is greener and thus switching sides. It is just coincidental that at some places where Mara River forms the boundary between Kenya and Tanzania when these animals migrate, they do migrate from Tanzania to Kenya and vice versa.

All this while some Giraffes were merrily grazing and ambling on the river bank.

Aao Gale Lag Jaye, Two Giraffe (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

It was almost 1400 hrs. we decided to return back as we were deep inside Masai Mara National Park. While driving along the bank of Mara we saw Crocodiles and Hippopotamus sunbathing on the sandbank of the river.

Crocodile  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Hippopotamus (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018) 

As we continued our return journey, at a small stream we witnessed mini-migration of wilder beasts across this stream.

Mini Migration (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Wilder Beasts Having their fill, Great Grey Heron in the foreground (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

We kept meeting our non-predatory friends on our way back. We made it back to Mara Sopa at about 1630 after a very fruitful albeit tiring day into the Masai Mara National Park.

White Backed Vulture (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Rhino (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Heard of Elephant (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

SIlver Back Jackal (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

One safari into Masai Mara was not enough. For us, it was “Yeh Dil Mange More” (Our heart craves for More (of wildlife)). We planned our half – day safari for the next day with Eric and then did usual things of tea, rest dinner and sleep sequence.