Walking with a Lioness and Chatting with a Lion (Well, Almost!) - Half day safari at Masai Mara

Day 5 - Half Day Safari at Masai Mara and Visit to Masai Village

(This post contains the  blog with 45 high quality watermarked photographs)

Link to the blog of full day safari at Masai Mara - https://harshad-datar.blogspot.com/2018/10/kenya-at-its-best-whole-day-safaris-at.html

This was our 5th day of Kenya tour and the Second day at Masai Mara. Since our passes were already made for three-day entry yesterday itself, we were at peace. We had our lavish breakfast at our Lodge and started our tour at 0800.

Entering Masai Mara, we were welcomed by these Impalas, bright and active. They were grazing peacefully implying that they were in a safe zone.

Impalas Grazing at Peace

as we progressed deeper, the various bird gave us a quick glance and flew away. A few got shot by my camera. Here is one such bird (rather two, look carefully) Yellow Breasted Barber.

Yellow-Breasted Barber

Monkeys are the best entertainers. As we were driving further, at one open stretch we found the best entertainers in the world, Monkeys, busy in their antics.

Wrestling Championship is in progress in Monkey Olympics 

Giraffes have a wide presence in Kenya as also in many other countries. One gets to see Giraffes very often in Masai Mara reserve. Some of them were also posing for photos.

Standing Tall and Grand

Military Man's (that's me)Delight, Giraffes marching in Perfect Combination

Perfect Shot

Let's go our own ways, you that side, me this side

Kenyan Reserves do have few hills but they are mostly savannah grasslands. The flat landscape offers no protection to animals from the rain or harsh sun except for the few saviours aptly called Umbrella Acacia trees as one is seen below

.

Rain Guard of the Animals, Umbrella Acacia Tree

For the first time in 4 safaris across various Kenyan Reserves, we came across the largest of the Antelope family, Eland. Here is one of them suspiciously looking at us.

Elanda - Largest Animal of the Antelope Family

Elands are very shy animals. They scoot on the first hint of any noise or sight of any vehicle. This group lived up to their trait of shyness.

Elands are a very shy animal, on smallest hints they run away

After some time, "Eric the Guide" seemed to have got information about the presence of the King of the Jungle nearby. Soon he was driving towards that place (and obviously we did not know) and soon we reached a place where 4 or five safari vehicles were standing on a narrow road with bushes on both sides, As the vehicles ahead of us inched forward and made way, we moved forward and there he was, a mighty Lion was enjoying rest under the shadow of the bushes after a stomach full of the Kill. Half the kill that the Lion had killed some time ago was lying next to him.

And then came The King

That was a big, Massive Lion. He was just not bothered about all the vehicles and people and was happily resting under the shade.

The King is Huge

Eric knew the Jungle well. He told us that this Lion would be here for hours to come. We should try our luck with finding some other animals and should return later. We moved on and after some distance sighted vultures who seemed to be waiting and not devouring some dead animal and instantly knew that there is something worth exploring.

See the gathering of vultures taking shape-

Lapped Faced  Vulture (Left)  and Rupel's Griffon Vulture

Lapped Faced Vulture ready to take off

Here is the reason for the presence of the Vultures. This Lioness is guarding her Kill

She is waiting for the Lion (so we thought and rightly so)

Another Lioness or Cub sleeping in the grass

Since the kill was next to her, we (with our newly acquired knowledge) knew that the Lioness would guard her kill. We left her to go back and check on The King. As we reached his place (about one and a half km from Lioness), our man was sitting like a Yogi, nonchalant and unmoved, exactly where we had left him.

Enjoying his Yogic Posture

We were curious about the Lioness and the vultures waiting to devour the balance kill. We returned to her location. By then, she was restless and she started moving. It was not clear as to where she wanted to go.

Moving away from the kill yet not far

Still looking for someone, see the kill right behind her

After some time, she went away and sat under the flimsy shade of a small tree. Her eagerness to find the Lion (head of their pack) was evident. She, in fact, was looking in the same direction where the Lion was sighted by us.

Aayega Aayega, Aayega Aane Wala  (one who is expected is going to arrive)

Keeping an eye on the kill too

After waiting for some time, she left the tree and started moving towards the direction of Lion. Eric was very sure that she is going there and we would get to see them together. We followed her.

Let me go and get that lazy bum

Beautiful

As the Lioness was moving, other animals were on alert. See the very alert Topi keeping an eye on where the lioness is heading.

An alert Topi watching over the Lioness

Where is my Partner?

Queen (of the Jungle) walking the Ramp

Since the Lioness was heading for the Lion (or so we thought), thinking that she would cut through the forest, we rushed to the Lion to look at them meeting each other. Lion also seems to have sensed her presence and left his Yogic Samadhi and got up.

Finally out of his Yogic Samadhi

It seemed that the Lioness has not continued with her pursuit as the Lion did not go far, he just crossed the road NS St down into another Samadhi.

Grand!

Burning Eyes - Could not get closer than this

Peaceful but still Fearsome

Now that the Lioness had left her "kill" and moved out, the Vultures had a field day and they polished off the whole kill.

Swooping Down 

Calling Finals for Landing

Oh, My landing strip is blocked

Perfect  Glide

Now that the Lioness had vanished, we moved out from there and went to another area. After driving a few kilometres brought us face to face with a herd of Elephants. A mom and her calf can be seen below.

Mom and Calf

Two males

The Elephant is having a (Mud ) bath

Let me powder my back

Massive Trunks

It was time to commence our return journey out of Masai Mara. Just out of curiosity we decided to check on our King of the Jungle and as we reached his abode, he was there, exactly the way we had left him.

After having the last view of the Lion we started our returned journey. As we were heading back we found a herd of elephants having water from a stream. However, they started withdrawing hearing the vehicular noise. Here are some of the snaps of that herd.

A Chotu (small) baby Elephant

The retreat has been sounded

We finished our very enjoyable half day safari and returned to ur Lodge for lunch. After lunch and some rest, we walked up with our Masai guide (who introduced us to Red Shrub, a shrub that is green but when crushed give red colour that is used by Masais for war painting their face, Mosquito repellant plant and plat used for treating Joint Pain) to a Masai village which was about a kilometre from our Lodge.

Some of the Masais have changed their lifestyle but there are some who still live traditionally in small mud houses of a small close-knit community of descendants of a single grandfather.  Masai Tribals, by DNA, are tall and lanky as can be seen below.

Masai Men in their village

Masai Hut

Masai men enjoy an enviable reputation of being very fierce warriors. Living in the immediate surrounding of the Lions, there is a mutual respect developed between Masais and Lions. People have seen Masai children playing when a Lion pride was nearby. Our guide told us that the Lion DNA is so built with centuries of relationship that Lions don't attack anyone wearing Masai Shawl (and also need to have Masai Smell). 

Once in the village. we were shown Masai dance done by men to celebrate an occasion like a big hunt etc. Here is a photo of Masai Men with some of us after their dance.

Masai's with New Converts from India

We were also shown their traditional jewellery and handicraft. A dance was also performed by Masai Women, a beautiful rhythmic dance that was.

The charges for visiting Masai village are USD 20 per person. We felt these charges are steep with respect to what and how is it shown but since the money is utilised for the education of their children, it was ok with us.

After this trip, our day came to an end with evening enjoyment of live music where one of our group members also performed songs on Mouth Orgon followed by dinner.

Kenya at Its Best - Whole Day Safaris at Masai Mara

Day 4 of our Trip  

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We had reached Mara Sopa Lodge yesterday and enjoyed our evening with Masai Dance. Today was the day of a “whole day Safari” including seeing the famous migration of Wilder Beasts, Zebras and Giraffes (if at all it happens as it entirely depends on the mood of the animals to migrate or not to migrate). The Masai Mara National Park Opens for people at 0630. We had planned to have a quick breakfast and start the safari at 0730.  

Being an ex Fauji (ex Military Man) always helps. I think I can be a Good Tour Manager. Our group was out on the road at 0740. A good time with respect to our schedule. In a short time, we reached the Gate and encountered a first and only problem in the whole trip. The security persons wanted our id document (namely Passport) and we were not carrying them (nor did our guide warn us to carry them). However, the Forest staff let us go after verifying our stay details from Sopa Mara Lodge.

As we moved into the forest, the usual sightings started. The Zebras were there, the Impalas were there and so were Giraffes, etc. Flat grassland made it possible to view these animals from up and close. The morning sun rays made the coat of all the animals shine and they were looking magnificent.

Tomson's Gazal, also feel the flat grassland of Masai Mara (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Wilder Beast (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Lapwing (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Heard of Wilder Beasts (Image - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Zebra in its full glory, Africans call it "Donkey with the Strips" (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Male Impalas, thrown out of the herd by dominant male (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Where is my Food? A Giraffe looking for food (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Ground Hornbill (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

When one is in a National Forest, the aim is to enjoy the nature and the wildlife that is encountered. Every one desires to see the Big Cat (Tigers) in India and Big Five in Africa (out of which Leopard, being a shy animal, is difficult to sight and Lions are few as compared to big herds of animals like Impalas, Zebras) but that desire needs to be curbed else one is left chasing the big cats or big five and miss the pristine forest and grand wildlife in chasing the illusion.

After venturing little more inside we met our first predator (of Masai Mara), a  Cheetah, merrily resting under a tree, oblivious to all the tourist vehicles and camera noise being generated. He looked majestic and cute. See for yourself.

"Parde me Rehene Do" (Let me be behind a curtain), a Cheetah (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Let me Rest, you go your way (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

WHo is There!!!!! (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

As we moved further we met a flock of Ibis, a herd of African Water Buffalo and an antelope family animal called “Topi”, yes you heard it right, Topi.   

African Water Buffalos (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Topi (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Venturing further into Masai Mara Reserve we found something light brown on top of a rock. 

From a distance, they were a small mass  of Brown, this is up and close first image (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

On getting a little closer, we realised we have hit a jackpot, a Pride of Lions were enjoying siesta (maybe, after a great meal). There were about 7 to 8 adult lionesses there, most sleeping and one grand Lioness seemed to be on security duty (difficult for me to shake off my defence background). Our and many other camera shutters started rolling and it felt that we be there for a long time and capture the mood.

Beauty on Duty (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Grand and Proud (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Scanning for Trouble (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Behave yourself Girls (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

A Lion Pride is composed of a Male Lion and many Lionesses and few cubs. We took one round of this rock formation looking for that Big Lion but did not find one. Lions by nature are lazy, we knew (actually, Eric, the Guide knew) that we can safely move out and come back after some time and the Lionesses would still be there and maybe the Lion too will appear. We decided to look for other beauties of the Jungle (other animals).

Common Drongo (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Lo and behold, soon we found a herd of Elephants. Actually, we found a small elephant first and soon realised that there is a full herd of them.

Cute Baby (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

I have grown  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

In Pursuit of Something  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Feeling Hungry, Let me eat something  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

When we returned to that rock, we found the Lionesses very much there and soon we also found the Lion of the pride with a cub trying to play with him. That cub was promptly scolded by the Lion.

I am the King  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

It's Too Hot

 Poor cubs made an innocent face and sat, see how innocent they look.

I did not do anything

After some modelling for photos, the Lion got up. Walked on top of the rock and drank some water and went to another place to rest. It is impossible to get a resting Lion moving. He is King of the Jungle and a king moves only when he wants (in this case that desire comes only when he is hungry).

Too many people, let me find a new place

Wow, What a Refreshing Drink

Grand and Majestic 

One interesting fact is, all safari vehicles have wireless sets installed and they exchange the sighting information. We also received input about sighting a Leopard on a tree. The place was far. A drive of over 40 minutes took us there. The Leopard was there, sitting on a tree branch but his face was on the other side. It was not possible to go on the other side of that tree. All we got was side view (minus his face and head) but none the less, a Leopard, very shy and difficult to sight animal was sighted by us (those who reached after half an hour could see Leopard walking away).

Get me if you can

We moved on from there and continued meeting some more animals. 

After some time we decided to have our Picnic basket (packed lunch is called Picnic basket by hotels and resorts). As we were sitting down for our lunch under an umbrella Acacia tree Eric got the news of possible migration. We rushed to the spot and waited for a long time (while having our lunch in our safari car).

There were many wilder beast and zebras gathered on both side of the river and they did inch towards the river but their mood possibly changed and they moved away from the banks of Mara. Few Crocodiles missed their Lunch and we missed sighting the famous migration. 

It must be understood that they migrate across the Mara river (animals do not have a notion of a boundary between nations like we have) and surprisingly migration happens from both banks across the river to the other bank, they may be thinking that the grass on the other side is greener and thus switching sides. It is just coincidental that at some places where Mara River forms the boundary between Kenya and Tanzania when these animals migrate, they do migrate from Tanzania to Kenya and vice versa.

All this while some Giraffes were merrily grazing and ambling on the river bank.

Aao Gale Lag Jaye, Two Giraffe (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

It was almost 1400 hrs. we decided to return back as we were deep inside Masai Mara National Park. While driving along the bank of Mara we saw Crocodiles and Hippopotamus sunbathing on the sandbank of the river.

Crocodile  (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Hippopotamus (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018) 

As we continued our return journey, at a small stream we witnessed mini-migration of wilder beasts across this stream.

Mini Migration (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Wilder Beasts Having their fill, Great Grey Heron in the foreground (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

We kept meeting our non-predatory friends on our way back. We made it back to Mara Sopa at about 1630 after a very fruitful albeit tiring day into the Masai Mara National Park.

White Backed Vulture (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Rhino (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

Heard of Elephant (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

SIlver Back Jackal (Copyright - Harshad Datar, 2018)

One safari into Masai Mara was not enough. For us, it was “Yeh Dil Mange More” (Our heart craves for More (of wildlife)). We planned our half – day safari for the next day with Eric and then did usual things of tea, rest dinner and sleep sequence.