Seven days trip to Bhutan - A Travelogue - VII and Concluding Part

The seven days trip to Bhutan that we made in Nov 15 was a wonderful time spent with family. I re-lived the whole trip while writing the blog. I hope my readers on my blog and also on FB, G+ and twitter (through links posted there) also enjoyed it as much as me writing it. It is my sincere hope that my attempt to take my readers on virtual tour of Bhutan succeeded in some measure.

This VII and concluding part is essentially about our return leg travel from Paro to Phuntsholing. Let the travel begin.

Day 7 and Final Day in Bhutan – 27^th Nov 15 – Paro – Phuntsholing and Phuntsholing Sights

This day was practically and return journey day with in Bhutan. Today we were travelling from Paro to Phuntsholing, the gateway in to and out of Bhutan. After a leisurely breakfast at Mandala resort we left Paro around 0900 and travelled to Phuntsholing. The travel was uneventful.

Only interesting site enroute was  Karbandi Monastery also known as Richending Gompa. This Gompa comes just about 10 km before Phuntsholing. Established by Queen Grandmother in 1967 this gompa is set inside a lush green tropical garden. The Gompa was locked when we reached there but even then the colourful Gompa and stupas around were worth visiting. Another reason everyone should visit this place is that a very good semi aerial view of Phuntsholing town and adjoining Indian plains. One may feel, after a long trip of Bhutan, to skip Karbandi Monastery but my suggestion to all such travelers is, it does not take too long to visit and this place should not be skipped.

We reached Phuntsholing at 1500 hrs and checked in (yet again) in Park hotel. Now the Indian mind was at work. We had almost six hours to utilize at Phuntsholing. Post check-in and tea we asked the direction to Crocodile Conservation Center (Amo Chuu)  which is behind the Bus Station of the town not far from Park hotel. We walked down to this place. It is a very small place and it has Gharials and Magars. There is a small entry fee and you are treated to visual delight of seeing Gharials,Magars and also babies of both these species. It is a place worth visiting and remember our meager entry fee also adds to the conservation efforts of Bhutan Government.

Grown up Magars

Gharial

One More

Baby Gharials

Magar / Gharial Eggs

Next on our trip was the Buddhist temple in Phuntsholing. It is called Zangtho Pelari Lhakhang. It is a three story temple within a beautiful garden. This place is visited by locals regularly and has lots of Pigeons around it. If I remember correctly, it has eight status of Avatars of Rimpoche in a circular structure.We did not visit two upper stories of the temple. Next was the usual thing that all women love to do and that is to do window shopping and actually shopping if they like something. My wife had a Kira and Tego (Lower and Upper of the dress).was bought.

This day was my brother in law and sister in law’s marriage anniversary. We wanted to surprise them but my sis in law is vegetarian.  We scouted this small market in Phuntsholing and found few cake and pastry shops. We were recommended the ultimate cake shop in Phuntsholing named Kizom café. 

We visited this place and quickly agreed to the view of the shopkeeper in the market who recommended it to us. It was by and far the best of what was there in this market. The requirement to pick up a cake that is vegetarian was fulfilled by picking up Pastries (only egg less product in cakes and pastries collection). The surprise was achieved and celebrations were done in the hotel room. It was dinner time soon and post dinner we all slept with the fond memories of the trip.

Surprise Anniversary Celebration

Next day we were to leave for Darjeeling. The travelogue of Three day trip to Darjeeling is in the making and would follow soon (break ke Baad). While leaving Phuntsholing, we clicked this splendid photo of Bhutan gate in the day light.

Bhutan Gate in the Day Light

Seven Days Bhutan Trip - A Travelogue - Part II

Day 2 – 22 Nov 15 - Phuntsholing – Thimphu

     We reached Phuntsholing yesterday after the Permit office had closed. Having not been able to do anything on that issue, today was the day to get our permits and travel into Bhutan to Thimphu, the capital city. Phuntsholing is also in Bhutan but there is no permit required to enter this city. Indian citizens have to take permit and if they are travelling in their own cars then I understand permit for car also needs to be taken.

     Our travel management firm told us that their representative would reach us by 0900 (Bhutan Time, henceforth, in my narrative all timings would mean Bhutan time 30 min ahead of India time. After all we have reached a foreign country). They also asked us to be ready and we were quick to get up, get ready, have breakfast and we were ready at dot 0900. Then it was a wait for TTT person to arrive. Well he did finally arrive at 1015 hrs. Form filling, mostly done by him, for five of us took about 10 minutes and off we were to Permit office. The office seemed very effective and we got the permits in flat 15 min.

    He then asked us to return to hotel and get ready for the move. The vehicle came by about 1050 and post proper loading we started for Thimphu by 1100 hrs. This day being day of journey, only spectacular part of the journey was the changing landscape as we climbed up from Phuntsholing (1240 ft) to Thimphu (7600 ft). From usual semitropical greenery at Phuntsholing where even mangoes grow to conifers around Thimphu was the main thing to watch.

      The road from Phuntsholing to Thimphu is maintained by Project “Dhantak” of Border Road Orginasation (BRO) of Indian Ministry of Defence. Incidentally, Dhantak is the name of the Project under which this road is maintained by BRO. Road maintenance in these areas is a tedious task and we could see BRO teams working at various places.

Road to Thimphu - I

A Bridge with Prayer Flags

      The road is about three lanes (1.5 lanes per side) for most of the distance. It is free of potholes, has good surface and also good signage throughout the journey. The exception is when it is traversing steep hill sides to gain height where the road is as narrow as in any other hilly area.

Nice Quality of BRO Maintained Road

     We took total 2 stops in a total 5 hrs travel time. First stop was at hotel Shelgoen at Wangkha, very closed to a major Hydro electric power project in  the valley below. Next stop was very close to Thimphu at a place called Whatsa (easy to remember, very close to Whatsapp). 

Hotel Shelgoen signboard

Soon we were at a decorative gate announcing our arrival at the outskirts of Thimphu, capital city of Bhutan since 1955 when the capital shifted here.

Welcome gate of Thimphu

Glimpse of Thimphu - Outskirts

     Thimphu impressed us. The roads were wide. Traffic was not heavy (we were used to traffic in Indian cities). It was disciplined and people showed patience and courtesy to other drivers.  Hardly any Horn Honking was done, in fact we heard very little of the beast called horn, which in India one feels that the switch for horn is fused and horn keeps blaring.  Both sides of the road had five to six story houses constructed in Bhutanese style or at least maintaining a Bhutanese style façade. Most buildings had Photograph of present king (and in some cases the queen also) or last king or both prominently displayed on them.

       Soon we reached the Clock Tower area (city center)  where our hotel, Shantideva was located. Whne I tried to reach the reception, I was shocked that I had to climb two flights of stairs but then realized that only one flight of stairs need to be climbed if one comes from other side (Hotel was between two main roads). Hotel does have a lift but from their reception to upper floors of the hotel. Hotel 89 which is close by has a lift from ground floor (as its reception is situated on the ground floor unlike Shantideva). Once inside, we found the hotel to be neat and clean. The rooms were comfortable and the staff good.

       After check in, we decided to move out to the market. Let me remind the readers, Bhutan is another country having its own culture and way of life. There  is no point comparing things to things back home. Inadvertently, we all do this mistake at least on day one in the heart of Bhutan at places like Thimphu or Paro. Because of this habit of going by own experiences, we were shocked to see at 1900 many shops were on the verge of closing and most of them closed at 1930 hrs. 

Traffic Island in Clock Tower Area

       We had to zerox our permit issues at Phuntsholing (for applying next day for another permit to travel to Punakha) and at 1930 we could barely find only one shop in the clock tower area. Any way resigned to the fact that we are in a place having different way of life we returned to Hotel (whose restaurant closes at 2030 hrs). We finished our dinner by 2100 hrs.

      The best was yet to come. We all thought let us have ice cream. When we asked the reception staff about ice cream shop, they indicated that it is right opposite the hotel but it may be closing now. We rushed only to find out that it had closed a long time ago around 2000 hrs. That was eye opener. We never thereafter went by our standards and adopted local standards from the next day. That finished our day II in Bhutan.

Seven Day Bhutan Trip - A Travelogue

Seven Days Trip to Bhutan – A Report

Day I – 21 Nov 15 – Mumbai – Kolkata – Bagdogra – Phuntsholing

At Mumbai Airport

This day was essentially a day of non stop travel. We left home in Mumbai about 0400 and reached airport terminal T2, the most beautiful airport terminal in India, in time to board 0610 AI flight to Kolkata. There was a big chaos on the airport at Ai check in counters. We had done web check in and had boarding passes but we had to sill give baggage at Baggage drop off point.

First airline staffer that we asked told us to join normal queue. One other person gave us a vague answer but finally one other staff of AI guided us correctly. After all the formalities we boarded the flight and reached Kolkata by 0920.

At  Kolkata Airport

New terminal at Kolkata was modern (reminds me that their old terminal was a contrast) building with lots of Aero bridges and counters for check in. As for infrastructure it is at par with any other airport. When we came to departure area for our spice jet flight which was post 1300 hrs we were greeted by a triangular display of masks of Bengal.This colourful display was attraction to all the people reaching Departure (at least from arrival hall where this display was right on the route).

Masks of Bengal - Photo I

Mask of Bengal - Photo II

Masks of Bengal - Photo III

We are a Company - In Company of Masks

                 

Baul Singers - Cut Out

Kolkata's Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport now boasts of modern infrastructure, wide area, large no of baggage Belts and check in bays. Few things stuck me. Firstly, there are no (at least I did not see) rest rooms between aero-bridge and baggage belt though one has to cover great distance to reach baggage belt.

Secondly while the building was modern, the Kolkata work culture of being laid back remained intact among airport staff. Luggage from AI flight took long time to come the belt. The airport still does not have inline x ray facility (understand it is still Work in Progresses). The staff speed is relaxed one unlike other airport.

New Terminal - Baggage Belt Area

New Terminal - Check In Area

Since we had nothing much to do, we waited for two of our relatives to join (they came to Kolkata by train). Once they came it was just freshening up, eating something and thereafter a wait for our outbound flight.

We boarded the fight on time. Our flight took off on time but had to circle around Bagdogra airport for some reason. Finally we got out of Airport by 1500. Got into waiting Innova and left for Phuntsholing. The move was quick. With a small break for tea, we made it to Phuntsholing in just 4 hrs and 30 min at 1930.

On the Road to Phuntsholing

The road from Bagdogra till crossing Siliguri town was busy and took maximum time. Few kilometers from Siliguri road widening work was progressing for about 30 km. That stretch was full of dust. During this journey  the road generally has the tea gardens through out the journey.  Also beyond about 50 km from Bagdogra it has forests on both sides with wild elephants who roam around the country freely and are dangerous.

In our trip too, after it became dark (at 1700 hrs) we saw rear and tail of an elephant, the last one from the herd which had just crossed the road and our driver stopped. Soon we heard trumpeting sound of angry elephant. Our driver said it they return or some more elephants cross; it may become very dangerous to be caught on the road. He just turned back and drove half a km to create space. After a few minutes wait and probing for sounds of elephant, when he felt safe, he resumed the journey. It was first encounter with the elephants in the wild and it looked scary.

Reaching Phuntsholing

We reached Phuntsholing at 1930 IST. The permit office for Bhutan permit (which recognizes only two documents for identification proof of  Indian citizens ie either Passport or Voter Id Card) closes at 1930 hrs (IST). Our permits thus would have to be made tomorrow.

First Glimpse of Phuntsholing

We checked in into Hotel Park.

room of Park Hotel

 It is a small but good hotel not far from Bhutan gate and the Buddhist Temple in the market. The room was comfortable. Here we got first taste of hassle free and comfortable life style of Bhutan. All the staff working in Phuntsholing  hotels mostly stays at Jaigaon, the Indian side town which is 500 odd meters from this hotel (understand cost of living at jaigaon is cheaper than Phuntsholing). The hotel staff has to go to Jaigaon in stipulated time hence the restaurant closes at 2130 IST (2200 Bhutan Time).

Dinning Hall - Park Hotel

We placed dinner order and went out for a stroll towards Bhutan gate. The roads were well laid out and very clean.  Very few people were on the road.  We did cross to Jaigaon and the contrast was instantly known. Jaigaon was full of people and usual Indian small town signs were all there, dirt, litter, dust, crowd etc.

Bhutan Gate from Phuntsholing Side

Artwork on Bhutan Gate

King of Bhutan's Photo on Bhutan Gate

Soon we returned to hotel had our dinner including a Bhutanese dry chicken dish called “Bja Sha Paa” and Ema Datsey (Chilies and Cheese) . Post dinner we  slept after about 45 minutes (a precaution against stomach upset particularly in hills though Phuntsholing is just 300 m above MSL) post dinner. After all, our day had started at 0400 at Mumbai and we had covered miles through two flights and one road journey.